Front driver caliper locking up
#1
Front driver caliper locking up
Ok, i need help.... 2004 Silverado 1500 Z71 Crew Cab
Front drivers side caliper locks up.
I have replaced the caliper, master cylinder cap (w/ gasket) and the brake hose. While bleeding the brakes the engine will idle down considerably. (RPM and MPH gauges dont work so i dont know how far the RPM's drop). Only the front drivers side is affected. I took it to Brake Specialists and they claim that the brake fluid is contaminated. Say $2K to fix. Doesn't look contaminated to me, i certainly didn't put anything other than brake fluid in it, and the only work i have done on it recently is to have a new water pump put on. Not sure why the shop that replaced the water pump would need to get into the master cylinder resevoir??? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Front drivers side caliper locks up.
I have replaced the caliper, master cylinder cap (w/ gasket) and the brake hose. While bleeding the brakes the engine will idle down considerably. (RPM and MPH gauges dont work so i dont know how far the RPM's drop). Only the front drivers side is affected. I took it to Brake Specialists and they claim that the brake fluid is contaminated. Say $2K to fix. Doesn't look contaminated to me, i certainly didn't put anything other than brake fluid in it, and the only work i have done on it recently is to have a new water pump put on. Not sure why the shop that replaced the water pump would need to get into the master cylinder resevoir??? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
#2
Brake fluid will absorb water from the air if left uncovered. Were the master cylinder cap or gasket missing before you replaced them? Were you adding old fluid? Did the brake shop say what the fluid was contaminated with? What all were they going to do for $2K? I'm also thinking that your idle drop is not related to your brake problem.
#3
Have you inspected the passenger side to see if it is operating properly. It could be frozen sending all the brake fluid to the drivers side.
When you bleed it does the fluid flow like it should? How does the fluid that is coming out look? What does the fluid in the Master Cylinder look like? What fluid did you put back in?
When you bleed it does the fluid flow like it should? How does the fluid that is coming out look? What does the fluid in the Master Cylinder look like? What fluid did you put back in?
#4
You must bench bleed the master cylinder to remove any trace of air. Then bleed the brake system with engine shut off.
Find a different garage that knows what they're doing to flush and bleed the system. 2k is way beyond excessive.
Dan
Find a different garage that knows what they're doing to flush and bleed the system. 2k is way beyond excessive.
Dan
#5
Thanks for the replies everyone!
I replaced the cylinder cap b/c the gasket was swollen and not fitting correctly (new one shows no sign of swelling), i beleive it got hot when SWMBO continued to drive after the water pump went out.....
I didn't add old fluid, used new dot 3.
Shop didnt clarify what may be the contaminate and i think they are full of it.
When i bleed it it doesn't seem like theres much air in it at all and after 3-4 rotations of pump hold and bleed it flows clean and clear (lots of pressure behind it), and i have been bleeding with the engine running??
They als weren't specific about what all they wanted to replace. I would assume Calipers, Hoses, MC ...
I haven't checked the passenger side to make sure it is operating properly, but i will this afternoon.
Last night after work, i removed the ABS fuse and drove it home and back to work this morning and it worked fine. Any insight on that? I can probably manage to bench bleed the MC and get the brakes bled (i thought the truck had to be running, so i haven't bled with it off.....), but i have heard that the EHCU has to be reset with a scanner tool?
Thanks again for all the help.
I replaced the cylinder cap b/c the gasket was swollen and not fitting correctly (new one shows no sign of swelling), i beleive it got hot when SWMBO continued to drive after the water pump went out.....
I didn't add old fluid, used new dot 3.
Shop didnt clarify what may be the contaminate and i think they are full of it.
When i bleed it it doesn't seem like theres much air in it at all and after 3-4 rotations of pump hold and bleed it flows clean and clear (lots of pressure behind it), and i have been bleeding with the engine running??
They als weren't specific about what all they wanted to replace. I would assume Calipers, Hoses, MC ...
I haven't checked the passenger side to make sure it is operating properly, but i will this afternoon.
Last night after work, i removed the ABS fuse and drove it home and back to work this morning and it worked fine. Any insight on that? I can probably manage to bench bleed the MC and get the brakes bled (i thought the truck had to be running, so i haven't bled with it off.....), but i have heard that the EHCU has to be reset with a scanner tool?
Thanks again for all the help.
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