My 1995 Ex Cab Chevy Silverado K2500 all of the sudden had the electric door locks stop working. Wouldn't work by remote either. Noticed after a couple trips that the locks only stop working after you've driven it a little ways. Then after it has cooled off for 10 to 15 minutes, the locks will start working again. I noticed when you push the locks you hear a sound like a relay in the dash clicking. I touched one of the two silver colored breakers in the fuse pannel and it burned a blister on my finger. I waited till it cooled and took it to at parts store to buy another one. They didn't have one and told me if it works when it cools off it's doing its job. Something else is making it over heat and trip. I put a regular 25 amp fuse in the breaker slot and drove a block and it blew out. I put the old breaker back in and it worked for a while and went back to doing it agian. Anyone know where I should start looking for a short or something that would be causing this? Also anyone know what all works through this breaker? I know for sure door locks and remote for door locks. It says on the fuse door, 20 amp utility fuse. Thanks for any help.

 

The over heating fuse is Fuse "A" the top one of the two Big breakers.

 

Go to another auto parts store and buy the new correct breaker. Never change out to a bigger fuse if you have a short or your truck might go up in smoke.

 

Swap breakers and see if the other one does it too. You probably have a short somewhere. Most of the trucks I come acroos that the door locks arent working on are caused by previous alarm installation. The relays are almost always tucked inside the drivers side kick plate. I would look in there to see if you have a shorted wire.

 

the most common place to short out wires for the locks and windows is the transition from body to door (yeah the black round rubber tube) this has beenknown to cause ALL kinds of problems.....also check your grounds if you have a bad ground the system will try to find one "in the system some where and overheat the breaker too.

 

Maybe disconnect one door lock at a time and try it I say it one has a broken wire which in turn is causing resistance for that relay to over heat or the relay is bad just replace the relay to start with or get a used one at a junk yard.

 

How can I tell which relay goes to the door locks. Also I took the driver's side door off to replace the hinge pin shims. I wondered if that could have caused a short in that tube of wires from the door to the body. I will look at it again to see if any of the wires were chaffed. Again thanks for the help. John

 

I just PM you check what info I send you. Guys it's from another site that's why I did it that way I don't want to break no rules.

 

I discovered today when I make a mistake and push the window roller button for up when the window is actually up that over heats the breaker and trips it. I drove it yesterday and made sure I didn't push the up button when I wanted to roll it down. Locks kept working all day. Today I pushed it the wrong way and popped the breaker. Am I full of it, or is this what's causing my problem?

 

yep.....change the breaker out.....but keep an eye on it the short could still exist