truck wont stay running
#11
Sometimes a fuel pump will slowly go out. Run 30 mins. then 15mins. ect.
Where they are in the cold fuel they cool off pretty quick , then run get hot, ect.
What model , year is your truck. Does it have a throttle body , or central port injection?
Where they are in the cold fuel they cool off pretty quick , then run get hot, ect.
What model , year is your truck. Does it have a throttle body , or central port injection?
#14
I have wat seems to be the same problem going on here... May I ask how long this has been acting this way?
I have been having sporadic trouble like this for about 6 months.... Truck runs great! if it will run at all... It starts , revs up and down , trying to "catch" an idle... If ya press the gass, it pops and sputters, back-firing in the intake... after a few mins, it will "catch idle" and I can drive it. For a while, atleast , sometimes 20mi others only 1mi before I pull off the road and let it sit. then try the whole process over... It's now sittin in the parking lot at the local pup. got to have it towed in the am , if I cant get a FIX...
My point is: Has anyone known of a fule pump "going-out"over like a 6month period? Or is it quicker than this? I do not have the money to replace this fuel pump...(especially if something tottaly diffrent is the Problem) ThankS!
I have been having sporadic trouble like this for about 6 months.... Truck runs great! if it will run at all... It starts , revs up and down , trying to "catch" an idle... If ya press the gass, it pops and sputters, back-firing in the intake... after a few mins, it will "catch idle" and I can drive it. For a while, atleast , sometimes 20mi others only 1mi before I pull off the road and let it sit. then try the whole process over... It's now sittin in the parking lot at the local pup. got to have it towed in the am , if I cant get a FIX...
My point is: Has anyone known of a fule pump "going-out"over like a 6month period? Or is it quicker than this? I do not have the money to replace this fuel pump...(especially if something tottaly diffrent is the Problem) ThankS!
#16
The exact same problem and what I have done
I have a 2000 GMC 5.3 that has done the same thing as all of yours has done. Just FYI the things I have tried and have produced no results. I post this in hopes of saving all of you a bunch of money replacing things you do not need to replace.
I have
Replaced the Crank sensor, Cam sensor, fuel pump, computer, air idle solenoid, knock sensors, by passed the security system, by pass the body control module,changed the mass air flow meter, hand fired all eight injectors, ohm every wire in the harness, preformed security relearn on the ECU. Now here is the thing which told me which direction to start looking. I Installed a ECU which was programmed to operate the fuel and spark only. All other functions of the ECU had been deleted. I still have the same problem. I have done engine scans on the truck and five cracker jack mechanics have looked at it. I have never failed to repair a vehicle in my life and I will find the problem with this one.
As soon as it warms up a bit I m going to spend some time of this truck. I do believe I have figured out the problem with this truck. I have systematically put together a plan for this vehicle and I am approaching the end of the plan. I intentionally started with the things I felt were least likely to cause the problem and move forward from there. The dealer has is a fix to this problem. The dealerships know of the problem and their answer is they literally replace all wiring harnesses, all control moguls, the ECU, and all sensors. They test nothing just replace it all. They gave me a price STARTING at 3800.00 dollars and said it could be as high as 4500.00. Your second option is to convert it to carburetor with stand alone ignition system for about $700.00.
If I am correct I will solve our problem this spring.
I have
Replaced the Crank sensor, Cam sensor, fuel pump, computer, air idle solenoid, knock sensors, by passed the security system, by pass the body control module,changed the mass air flow meter, hand fired all eight injectors, ohm every wire in the harness, preformed security relearn on the ECU. Now here is the thing which told me which direction to start looking. I Installed a ECU which was programmed to operate the fuel and spark only. All other functions of the ECU had been deleted. I still have the same problem. I have done engine scans on the truck and five cracker jack mechanics have looked at it. I have never failed to repair a vehicle in my life and I will find the problem with this one.
As soon as it warms up a bit I m going to spend some time of this truck. I do believe I have figured out the problem with this truck. I have systematically put together a plan for this vehicle and I am approaching the end of the plan. I intentionally started with the things I felt were least likely to cause the problem and move forward from there. The dealer has is a fix to this problem. The dealerships know of the problem and their answer is they literally replace all wiring harnesses, all control moguls, the ECU, and all sensors. They test nothing just replace it all. They gave me a price STARTING at 3800.00 dollars and said it could be as high as 4500.00. Your second option is to convert it to carburetor with stand alone ignition system for about $700.00.
If I am correct I will solve our problem this spring.
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