1995 Chevy new motor problem...
Well I thought I had the issue pretty much figured out but I was wrong. The motor is still running weird. Everytime I go to give it gas it starts missing and bogging down kind of like its being flooded or something. All my friends thought it was the distributor but it doesn't seem to be (swapped out multiple times with others with no difference. Timing is fine, and replaced the IAC valve, TPS, coolant temp sensor on intake, fuel filter, and EGR valve. There are no vaccuum leaks as I've checked everywhere with no results. I cleaned up the throttle body REALLY good before reinstalling on new motor and also have ran sea foam through the fuel system. Grounds are all good as well.
Does anybody have any idea as to why the old motor didn't have this problem but the new one mysteriously does? I'm running out of ideas. Last things I can think of are that the knock sensor is bad, fuel injectors are bad, or the fuel regulator may be bad. I did notice that the knock sensor wire seems to be kind of crappy, but I'd think it would throw some sort of code if it was.
PLEASE HELP! I can't really afford to keep driving my Camaro everyday and really need this girl up and running good as new!
Does anybody have any idea as to why the old motor didn't have this problem but the new one mysteriously does? I'm running out of ideas. Last things I can think of are that the knock sensor is bad, fuel injectors are bad, or the fuel regulator may be bad. I did notice that the knock sensor wire seems to be kind of crappy, but I'd think it would throw some sort of code if it was.
PLEASE HELP! I can't really afford to keep driving my Camaro everyday and really need this girl up and running good as new!
Question: Did you build your new motor yourself? What items did you replace or change out on the new motor.
I'll take a guess valve lash. I say run, or have a mechanic run, cylinder compression check on it.
I'll take a guess valve lash. I say run, or have a mechanic run, cylinder compression check on it.
I did not build it myself, it was bought as a brand new (not rebuilt) stock replacement directly from Summit racing. EVERYTHING on the motor is new except for the throttle body, intake, knock sensor, and the coolant temp sensor located in the block itself. And a few other things that I'm not familiar with what they are exactly (little black box sitting directly above the middle of the passenger side valve cover) and another little black dealy bob that is mounted to the coolant neck on the intake.
Last edited by 2oCHEVYo0; Aug 8, 2011 at 12:41 AM.
Still am needing help with this issue... Has anybody ever had any problems similar to this even after replacing what I've done?
I just really need to get it up and running. Nothing is more frustrating to me than throwing a new motor in (2k) and then dropping another thousand into it only to have it run worse than the previous motor did with two bad headgaskets and all sorts of other things going bad...
PLEASE HELP!!!
I just really need to get it up and running. Nothing is more frustrating to me than throwing a new motor in (2k) and then dropping another thousand into it only to have it run worse than the previous motor did with two bad headgaskets and all sorts of other things going bad...
PLEASE HELP!!!
When the old engine was in did you have any of the same symtoms? So we're clear is the problem when you accelerate only or any speed once you take off? I'm not familiar with the 95, I had a 91, but even if you don't have a check engine light you should jumper the connector and read any codes if that is the way a 95 does it. Or I assume you can use an OBD-1 code reader. Any sensors at fault should give a check engine light maybe the computer that controls the injectors is bad. Pull a plug and see if it is wet. Did you try new plugs or check them for proper gap?
No, these symptoms are different from what the previous engine had. And basically what happens is when the pedal is depressed it starts bogging really bad. Then when you take your foot off of the pedal it almost locks up but then jumps back up to 700 rpm. I've tried the code reader with no luck. Just says everything is in perfect working order and everything is fine.


