If I remember right, yes. There is no pellet in the key.

 

I believe I have found some answers in this exhaustive thread on the subject. We'll see when we try stuff out.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/t454520.html

 

The design of the passlock™ system is to prevent vehicle theft by disabling the engine unless the passlock™ lock cylinder rotates properly by engaging the correct ignition key. The system is similar in concept to the passkey system. However, the passlock™ eliminates the need for a key mounted resistor pellet. The components of the system are as follows:

• The ignition lock cylinder

• The ignition switch

• The passlock™ sensor

• The EVO/Passlock™ module

• The security indicator

• The vehicle/powertrain control module (VCM/PCM)

 

Hey guys, we got the top of the tank exposed yesterday, so we can look right at the pump.
I now have 2 quick questions:
1.) There are 7 wires going to the pump, with two plugs. If I got the colors right: One plug has a gray, a brown with white stripe, and 2 blacks. The other has a gray, a green and a black. Anybody know where these go?
I would like to be able to test them if possible to make sure they work correctly before putting in a new pump.
2.) In trying to recode the passlock, the security light come son and stays on. It never goes out. We let it sit as long as 15 minutes, it did not go out. I ran through three 11-minute cycles as the relearn says, but the light never did go out. Wazzup with that?
I sure was happy to see all those wires. The other makes I have worked on have 2 wires to the pump, so it either works or not. Having 7 means the pump could indeed be part-dead.

Thanks!

 

This may help.

 

Thank you for the schematic. I wish it was a tad bigger, so I could read it printed out better, but I will take it!

Update, to date: We tested fuel pressure from pump at Shraeder port on the plenum, where 5 months ago we had 65 psi prime. We got 10 psi. We pinched return line to test for regulator troubles. Still 10 psi. Determined pump not pressurizing system, so we pulled tank, pulled pump. Tank had some black junk in it, we cleaned that all out along with the old gas. (I don't know if it was from bad pump before or not, since they did not clean tank when replacing pump that time).

Drained lines and replaced fuel filter. Remounted tank and rewired harness to use new updated pump plug included with pump. Ran out of time.

We will get back on it this weekend, plug up fuel lines and harness, with fresh gas, and see what is what. If we get 65 psi prime and still no run, I have picked up a crankshaft position sensor and we will inspect the harness best we can and install that.

If there is still a prime but no-run situation, next would be to inspect Passlock wiring in the column to the firewall.

Going way back to chrisbmo2000 in this thread, I am really thinking the CPS will be the cure for the main condition. Been checking function out, and it says CPS runs both FI and ignition in this truck. Too bad about the pump going bad while it sat, but then again, maybe good it did cuz it would suck to get it running then have the pump seize out in the boonies somewhere. Probably would not have happened without crud left in the tank from last replacement.

Thanks for the help! This place and two other forums helped a lot. I hope it runs by Sunday cuz I gotta get this thing out of my shop next week so I can work on my hot rod!!! Will let you know Monday.

 

As soon as I saw your post I had to register and send you a reply. I have the same truck that had the same problem. Everything checked out the same way yours is. The only difference is mine was getting checked out by a shop that I know. And they were very frustrated until I found this solution for them to try. As it turns out what Acnas is telling you above is probably the problem. Your chip is in the lock in the column and to replace the associated parts is around a $1000.00. But, this company makes a bypass for the passlock security system that is on the truck and it only costs about $189.00. Plus any installation. My shop put this in and VOILA, problem solved. Vehicle started up firt time and every time since. Yes you lose the passlock security system that is flawed already, but you will never have to deal with it again. Because these parts have a high failure rate. About 7 years. Here is the link: How to disable and remove VATS, PASSKey and Passlock Security Systems in GM cars
read the website and it will explain what is happening to the truck.
I am just about certain this will solve it!

 

Sounds like the same thing that happened to my 1998 C1500. It would start but as soon as you released the key it would quit.

Ignition switch on the column was bad and worn out!!! I replaced it and my troubles went away!!

I hope this helps!!

 

My husband and I are having this same issue. It starts then dies immediately. Parts replaced so far: fuel pump, fuel filter, spider injectors, fuel regulator, oil pressure switch, ignition switch, ignition module, passlock, fuel pump relay, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor and ignition coil. Crank sensor is gettingpower and 50 psi with key in the onposition (not running). Any ideas? Also, attempted the reset for the passlock system and took negative battery cable off to reset computer.

 

Has anyone found a solution to this issue? My only difference is I parked my truck for loss of oil pressure even after new pump and oil sender switch. I went ahead and completey rebuilt this engine with all new internals, crank turned and head work done. I put it all back together and have checked my connections and grounds many times. I' getting great spark and fuel. But like above it's like the pump don' kick back from first fire. Have tried the security pass ock relearn a few times. My only difference is when I turn my key on, all my lights dont display, and only 4 do after it dies. I' gonna try to do the pass lock bypass today and see if any change, if not I'm gonna do as OP said and jump the fuel pump wire to a switched hot. But cant' it be done at the fp relay?