2000 gmc fuel pump
 

Hello i`m new here, Iv`e been reading a lot and finally have a question. I have a 2000 gmc 1500 with a 5.3. I`m going to change the fuel pump, Do you have any recomendations on what brand pump to use. Are any better than others. Also the odometer/tripometer dosent light up anymore. ocasionally it will come on and it always keeps adding milage just dosent light up much any more. thanks in advance.

Personally I would spend the money on a GM pump - this isn't a job you want to have to repeat. If it were easier I would say take a chance with an aftermarket. A far as the cluster you probably need to send it in for a rebuild. I just sent my wife's Tahoe cluster in for bad stepper motors and the company rebuilds the entire unit for under $100. That includes all new stepper motors, soldered in bulbs, and speedo not showing like yours. My 96 impala SS would do just like yours is doing and they were able to fix it as well. If you need I can get their information for you.

Yeah an OEM pump will give you a lifetime parts and labor warranty so... yeah I would just spring for it. I would.

thanks guys. Yes i would like the info. on the cluster. I put a new pump in two years ago. But now the fuel guage dosn`t work again and the pump makes a loud grinding sound sometimes. It wasnt a gm pump, I think it was from autozone. In two weeks the box is coming off to get a replacement boxside put on. So that would be a good time to replace the pump.

Walboro makes a great pump for these GM trucks. Little cheaper but puts out just as much psi and will last just as long as the AC pumps.

regarding the odometer, you might be able to fix it yourself in about 20 minutes. i did, which means just about anyone can. for 2+ years mine had been acting up in the same way that you describe. here is someone's website with all the details ... it really is that simple.

Step By Step Instruction :: Mrfixit

the only details i would add are:

1) i needed to clean away silicone caulk that surrounded the joint in order to see that it was actually loose. it was the exact same joint as on his website.

2) to resolder, first melt solder onto the tip of the soldering pen (i used a $10 AA-battery powered soldering pen from Harbor Freight) so that a liquid ball forms, then hold the molten ball against both parts of the the broken joint. it won't flow onto the joint at first because the joint itself is too "cold". when the molten ball does flow onto the joint, it means every thing is hot enough and the joint has been resoldered. (heating the joint directly with the soldering-pen means you would risk overheating the circuit board and loosening other joints, so i do not recommend heating the joint directly with the pen.)

hope this help ... you'll be finished in 20 minutes.