It died all of a sudden, I was rolling fast enough to make it to a parking lot. To eliminate being a low fuel issue I put in a little fuel into the tbi, got it to sputter but not start up. It did that a few times then nothing.

Going down my list of new parts but to no avail. I do not have spark or fuel at this stage.

New fuel pump, fuel filter, tore apart and cleaned out top of tbi/throttle body, diafram in good shape to boot. Fuel pressure at the line, injectors tested fine, still no fuel.

New ignition coil, new secondary coil, new fuel pump module, new cap and rotor, new crank position sensor/detonation knoc,

It turns over thanks to a recent new starter, battery, alternator I put in a couple of months ago so it has the juice to create the compression.

The injectors are getting juice, they function and push fuel when I fed them when the top end of the tbi was out.

I'm stumped at this point. Any help would be appreciated.

 

It may be a long shot. I had a 91 chevy K1500 with a 700 auto tranny. It replaced the original and soon after it blue a 5 amp fuse. To make a long story short the fuse was blowing due to the wires being shorted out in the tranny oil pan. The wires were for the clutch. Check for a blown fuse first. I don't remember what it was labeled but it was under the dash drivers side.I think it controlled the TBI, but not sure.

 

Thanks for the reply. Its not blowing fuses. I have talked to a couple of "mechanics", or so they think they are, as well as parts people, and the rabbit trail of it, not one mentioned ecm ie computer....

I am a need to know mechanic type, but new research and education on hand, sharing this for other readers so they don't have to face my expensive time wasted gambit.

Procedure, plug in a code reader "before" replacing squat on it. It is supposed to tell you where the problem is. In this case I paid a mobile mechanic to plug in his but my computer could not be interfaced, this indicates a failed ecm. The part is $104 at the local parts place. I am pretty irritated that none of these so called expert mechanics bothered to start there. I see countless other threads playing the endless parts replacement gambit as well, all of that wasted when they could start with what is supposed to be something to make it easier to diagnose problems.

I'll update this after I switch it out.

 

I'm sorry to hear that TMW... Mechanics have the ability to be crooks, and unfortunately I know there are quite a few out there... I've got my share of horror stories as well.

The good news is that it's only $104. The EBCM went out on my 98 and it was an $800 part no matter how you sliced it, so I didn't touch it.

You may want to consider purchasing your own OBD1 code reader? They're pretty inexpensive and it may save you some headache down the road. Otherwise, Autozone does free code reading and I always take anything down there before I take it in to double check, but idk if they will still have OBD1

 

It was the distributor assembly, some module inside causing the problem.

Will tear apart the old one to see if its serviceable, $120 component worth looking into for fixing. New repair shop next headed by yours truly, partner was spot on with the call.