Drivelineband did you ever get this resolved?

I am receiving the same error code in my ’97 Suburban 1500 5.7 2x2.
I have changed the plugs, plug wires, rotor and rotor button. After $180, none of these things has helped. I just had a tune-up a year ago with 25,000 miles placed on the vehicle since then. The plug in cyl #6 did look dirty. Actually, no four plugs on that side looked as clean as the ones on the driver side.
What should I try next? I do not smell rotten eggs while the engine is running. I don’t really understand how a Faulty coil (pack) could only miss fire on #6 and fire just fine on the other 7?? I know where that is located and it looks fairly easy to change.
What is involved in replacing the whole injection (spider) unit? I am by far not a mechanic.

Since it happend so quick, I would look at mechanical. Check the valve springs for that cylinder!

The problem was fixed. It was a bad injector. I want to thank the helpful experts on this forum. To the weekend warriers out there like me: replacing an injector on this motor is easy, but getting TO it is intense, and then of course, putting everything back together. My advice would be if you're lucky enough to have a real mechanic friend, invite him over for pizza and beer to help you with this project - otherwise it may easily consume your whole weekend - at least the better part of a day that you could have been out fishing, or perhaps scoring points with your woman by putting her car up on jacks in your garage with the hood open, changing the blinker fluid or muffler bearing with the game or music on the radio.

Sweet man! Thanx for coming on and asking.

Well.....
$678.79 later. My Suburban is now running again. It was the fuel injectors that were bad. The odd thing is that I also had error code P0141 and P0161 (O2 sensor bad). They did not replace those but the error has not returned, yet. Think that was due to the bad injector?
Damn I should have taken the day off and tried to fix it myself!

When the injectors go bad they will either cause a lean or rich mixture. The O2 sensors have a big chance of goin bad when the motor runs rich cause of the unburned fuel creating carbon build up. If you take the O2 sensors off, you can tell alot about how the motor has been running, even if it has a blown head gasket. The coloration shows the evidence. I would replace them anyways.

Wow these are some sharp tools here. Blinker fluid, muffler bearing, metric crescent wrench, please understand that those are all a joke. For the recommendation about checking voltage at the injectors, impossible. The spider injection is one unit under the intake, cannot check voltage. And you're referencing from a ford and not a Chevy and please don't ever diagnose your car with a long screw driver held up to your ear, that's barbaric.
Proper way to diagnose is to first start with checking the plug( cracks or out of gap, possible wrong plug from being a cheap ass), is everything ok? Of so, check wire. Is it arching? Burnt or showing white powder marks on it indicates it vindicating outside the loom. Everything ok? Check coil, you check the coil by checking resistance. Easiest way to check if it's adequate, compare to known good part. Ask your parts store to pull the part and check resistance. Everything ok? Now go to your cap n rotor, any marks indicating false contact? Any condensation? Any white powder or burn marks at the points? Everything ok? Possible distributor or body control module. Don't dare to diagnose the bcm if I have lost you in these basic instructions. Now if anything of these items I asked if they look ok, if they don't, replace and recheck.

Dude it's not a ford!!!! Completely different engines and set ups

I am having the same problem but it keeps melting the wire on cylinder #6 I've been through a box and a half of wires and taken it to 2 shops near my house.