Well typically what I would do is get out my air chisel and try to twist the bearing. That, or get a really REALLY big hammer (I use my 48oz for this) and try to hit the flange in a direction that is pulling the bearing out of the spindle. I really wouldn't try heating the spindle, as you do not want to temper the metal. I really wouldn't do it anyways ... it should come out with some hammering/air chiseling/air hammering. A slide hammer might only damage the bearing by ripping the hub out of the bearing, but who knows. Slide hammers are pretty powerful tools

I don't know how successful you will be with the truck down low on the ground though. Typically I have a hoist available for this so I can get a good ol' base ball pitch type swing going. Pulls flanges out of press in bearing quite nicely

So again, my first option is air hammer, second would be huge hammer whacking on the flange, third option is slide hammer. I suppose fourth is remove the knuckle and try to press it out ... I guess if you have a bench vice big enough you can try to use that. Or set the knuckle on the bench with a really big socket on the back side of it and smack the living hell out of the socket with that big hammer and try to get it out that way. Just think violent, it'll take lots of muscles you never knew you had get that bearing out.

I've seen bearings so corroded into the knuckle that it too two guys with air hammers at the same time pushing on different sides of the bearing to get it to turn. Even then, they almost ended up cutting through part of the bearing with the bits they were using in the air hammer.

If you do use the air hammer though, EYE PROTECTION and EAR PROTECTION! Them things are LOUD and DANGEROUS! Bits of metal can go flying right into your eyeball and the loud vibrations can cause hearing damage.

 

Oh, and if you do decide to pull the knuckle to replace the bearing, DO NOT USE a pickle fork to separate the ball joints. Take the nuts off, and whack the hole int he knucle where the tapered stud goes into it. This will separate it no problem. Doing this stuff requires you to be violent sometimes

 

NullHead thanks for the quick response. I got it off. I used the air chisel and a BFH. I mushroomd the heads of the 3 bolts a little. I was able to just grind off the mushroom and reuse the bolts. Everythign is back on the ground. ONly took 4 hrs to do this job. Piece of cake.................... Again thxs for the quick response and tips.

 

Glad you managed to get if off.
One trick I use for pounding on the bolts is to use wheel studs from a dually truck. The bearing bolts are a 14mm fine thread, same as the wheel studs. Then you don't have to worry about damaging the mounting bolts of which are 12point on other applications.
NOTE: my application was GM 3/4-1ton and Dodge 3/4-1 ton

For the record I do not like using heat on suspension components either. That said I had to use a torch to remove a hub from my '01 Ram CTD. I had a bad axle joint but good hub bearing. Tried all the usual tricks of hammering on the mounting bolts, a socket on the bolts and using the power steering to push on the bolts, air chisel, little 48oz cross pein hammer and chisel and finally going mid-evil with a 10lb sledge right to the wheel flange(killed the bearing at this point!). Even considered cutting the knuckle to save the bearing, that is until I fount the knuckle was a dealer only item at $600! In the end it took heat to the knuckle, using the trucks P/S to push on one stud while hammering on the oppisite side with the sledge.

I wish it only took 4 hrs.

 

Whats the reason for not using a pickle fork? I just put 6,800 in parts under my truck. Didn't cost me a dime either. Gotta love Toyota care lol.

 

I don't care for pickle forks because they destroy the grease boots. Plus it's just easier to hammer on the tapered area of the joint.

 

I always just put new boots on. I don't like reusing the old ones anyway.