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-   -   Fuel Lines Rotted (https://www.truckforums.com/forum/chevy-silverado-gmc-sierra-forum-11/fuel-lines-rotted-18678/)

MotoWarrior 04-25-2012 05:08 PM

Fuel Lines Rotted
 
For starters I am an original owner of a 2001 2500hd with an 8.1 and not a professional mechanic. Okay, so I pull my gas tank expecting to replace my fuel pump as the truck was hard starting, surging, and the gas gauge was giving some funky readings. I knew I also needed a filler neck as I knew this was a problem area too as it was also rotted. Once I dropped the gas tank, I found my fuel lines were also gone from rot too from the fuel filter or cab back and one of the lines going forward which goes over the transmission and through the frame. So now I have to repair the fuel lines and this is new territory for me.

How is this usually fixed? I know it's 9#'s pressurized, but can you get away with getting a fuel line flaring tool and replacing the line or does GM or some aftermarket seller has any fuel line kits? I'd appreciate if someone could help. Thanks in advance.

Mr_Shamrock 04-25-2012 09:36 PM

I had one that wasn't rotted, but broke when the tank was dropped (one of the main reasons I now lift the bed instead of dropping tanks) and the line was no longer available. I found a local hydraulic fitting maker and they had some very high pressure rubber fuel line that I replaced it with. They were able to press in the same fittings so it bolted right up. Mine was just the rubber part past the metal line, but it might be an option if you can't find another route. I don't see why the whole line couldn't be replaced with rubber. I know the line they used on mine was rated at WAY more pressure than the system would ever see.
I would try the salvage yards too although most of them cut the lines when they pull the tanks.
You could always bend new lines, but it will be very time consuming. Good luck!

MotoWarrior 04-26-2012 09:43 AM


Originally Posted by Mr_Shamrock (Post 76062)
I had one that wasn't rotted, but broke when the tank was dropped (one of the main reasons I now lift the bed instead of dropping tanks) and the line was no longer available. I found a local hydraulic fitting maker and they had some very high pressure rubber fuel line that I replaced it with. They were able to press in the same fittings so it bolted right up. Mine was just the rubber part past the metal line, but it might be an option if you can't find another route. I don't see why the whole line couldn't be replaced with rubber. I know the line they used on mine was rated at WAY more pressure than the system would ever see.
I would try the salvage yards too although most of them cut the lines when they pull the tanks.
You could always bend new lines, but it will be very time consuming. Good luck!

Thanks for the input, it's appreciated. Lifting the bed gets a little messy with mine b/c of my fifth wheel hitch rails and the wiring so it's damned if you do or damned if you don't. It makes absolute sense though. It just amazes me that after all these years they cannot do something better for fuel or brake line routing which was last fall's project.

NullHead 04-26-2012 12:57 PM

IMO, your best option will be to buy some stock coiled up fuel line and flare the ends and bend it to fit. It isn't overly difficult, but as Mr. Shamrock said, it is time consuming.

Personally, what I would do, is try to cut the lines in a way that you can easily remove them from the truck, and lay them out on the ground and try to match up the bends with your new line. You can go to sears and buy some craftsman tools to work with steel lines, or you can go to Autozone and pickup some OEM brand tools and use them once or twice.

I went with the Craftsman line flaring kit and quite honestly, I like it better than the Blue Point set that my school uses.

You can search on Youtube for some videos on how to flare the line ends, but in reality the actual crafting of the steel line is up to you. Some people I have talked to like to zip-tie the old line to the new one to get a perfectly matched bend, while others just eyeball it and adjust it once it's in the truck. If you talk to your parts store guys, they can recommend the easiest way to buy the line.

I've heard that there's a newer style of metal line that you can get now that's really easy to bend - I'd try that if at all possible. Also, stay away from compression fittings if you're going to join old line to new line. Go with a coupler and two flared ends versus a compression fitting.

It's not difficult to do, but takes time and patience - but considering you've already got your truck apart, it's already out of service until you find a solution, just spend the time and repair the lines.

MotoWarrior 04-27-2012 06:46 AM


Originally Posted by NullHead (Post 76077)
It's not difficult to do, but takes time and patience - but considering you've already got your truck apart, it's already out of service until you find a solution, just spend the time and repair the lines.

Thanks. Yes, I guess I'm going to find out how time consuming it really will be tomorrow when I'm off from work. Last fall it was the brake lines, hoses and calipers. Now this little project. That 8.1 is as smooth as the day I bought it, just turning 90K miles. It's really a shame how the entire underside of the truck is going. Last winter I actually broke a shackle on the leaf spring b/c it rotted through and eventually replaced both leaf springs with newer ones from a junk yard. Bolts were stuck and it was easier than having the leaf springs rebuilt. I should be suing the state of Connecticut for putting that liquid salt solution on the roads as it's widespread usage is just ruining personal property of those that cannot buy a new car every 4 years. I can only imagine how the guys in commercial vehicles are complaining...

Diesel Dan 04-27-2012 07:21 AM

I've had NAPA make up short sections of the plastic lines with the quick connectors as well. Dorman offers steel fuel line repair kits for GM vehicles with quick connect fittings and o-ring style for the fuel filter. Maybe a combo of both for yours like 24" of plastic line to get you down from the top of the tank to steel line on the frame rails.

You could always try the dealer since GM does offer complete line assemblies for some vehicles. Down side is they are usually all brake and fuel lines together and a PITA to install.


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