oil weight on my mind!
Eventhough GMreccomends using 5-30, butto get rid of unwanted engine noise I was thinking of switching to 10-30
All replies welcome---should I ---- Shouldn't I
Tell me what you think, Thanks in advance
All replies welcome---should I ---- Shouldn't I
Tell me what you think, Thanks in advance
Hey Y'all, I am an ex-used oil analysis technician, so I know a little about what kind of oil you should be using, and what kinds of additives you shouldn't bother with.
Most oil companies spend millions of bucks developing oil so that it will protect your engine and run properly in all temperatures and conditions. Most of those additives like Lucas, are simply an extra shot of additives that the oil companies are already putting in there anyhow. The problem is, when you add too much additives, they don't dissolve, like adding too much sugar to your coffee. So you end up with additives that deposit out as waxes and varnishes, coat the inside of your oil passages, and prevent proper heat transfer to your coolant, and can cause overheating and other very bad things in your engine. The best thing you can do for your engine is pick one oil brand, and one oil type, and stick with it for the life of your engine.
Most oil makers will have one supplier of crude, or have one source of synthetic oil, if you are using synthetic. If you are constantly changing brands and types, you will errode your seals prematurely, because they have to keep getting conditioned to the different types of oil. Some oils make seals softer, and then they seal better but wear out faster. That is a trick of most "high-mileage" oil types, to make it seem like you are not burning as much oil, but in fact, you are simply wearing out your seals even faster than before and now you will have BIG problems when they are gone. Some oils make seals firmer,and even though they might seem to not seal as well, they will last a lot longer. Synthetic oils are like that. If you use synthetic oil right from the first oil change, all of your seals will likely last longer. But if you own an old truck, and make the switch to a full synthetic, your seals will change shape, stiffen and harden, and you will likely start losing oil like crazy.
The first number in the oil weight designation just signifies how well it flows in cold temperatures. It does not affect the high temperature operation of that oil at all. So really, we should all be using 0W30, because even if your engine is 30 deg Cel/95 deg F when you start it on a hot arizona morning, the 0W30 will still flow to the top of the engine and lube your valve train quicker than a 10W30, and the 0W30 will still give you the same protection at running temp of 180 deg F, 80 deg Cel. Now, if your engine is making bad noises because of thin oil, it is because you have worn out some bearings or bushings somewhere, and the oil gap is much wider than it was when new, and you might need a thicker oil to get the same performance. I would suggest a 0W40 or 5W40, so that you still get the good flow characteristics of the thinner oil in startup, but it will remain thicker when the engine is hot.
What I noticed in 4 years of analyzing oil from trucks, diesel and gas, is that the biggest problem with oil is dirt contamination through bad air filters. If you are really worried about your oil, check and consider replacing your air filter. I have found that the oil-type like K&N are really good at reducing dirt, but regular ones can be just as effective. A problem with aftermarket filters is fittiment, and if there is any cracks in the air intake system, from a cheap supplier that did not fit the intake properly, you will get unfiltered air into your engine, and you may as well sell it if you are gonna run it like that!
Most oil companies spend millions of bucks developing oil so that it will protect your engine and run properly in all temperatures and conditions. Most of those additives like Lucas, are simply an extra shot of additives that the oil companies are already putting in there anyhow. The problem is, when you add too much additives, they don't dissolve, like adding too much sugar to your coffee. So you end up with additives that deposit out as waxes and varnishes, coat the inside of your oil passages, and prevent proper heat transfer to your coolant, and can cause overheating and other very bad things in your engine. The best thing you can do for your engine is pick one oil brand, and one oil type, and stick with it for the life of your engine.
Most oil makers will have one supplier of crude, or have one source of synthetic oil, if you are using synthetic. If you are constantly changing brands and types, you will errode your seals prematurely, because they have to keep getting conditioned to the different types of oil. Some oils make seals softer, and then they seal better but wear out faster. That is a trick of most "high-mileage" oil types, to make it seem like you are not burning as much oil, but in fact, you are simply wearing out your seals even faster than before and now you will have BIG problems when they are gone. Some oils make seals firmer,and even though they might seem to not seal as well, they will last a lot longer. Synthetic oils are like that. If you use synthetic oil right from the first oil change, all of your seals will likely last longer. But if you own an old truck, and make the switch to a full synthetic, your seals will change shape, stiffen and harden, and you will likely start losing oil like crazy.
The first number in the oil weight designation just signifies how well it flows in cold temperatures. It does not affect the high temperature operation of that oil at all. So really, we should all be using 0W30, because even if your engine is 30 deg Cel/95 deg F when you start it on a hot arizona morning, the 0W30 will still flow to the top of the engine and lube your valve train quicker than a 10W30, and the 0W30 will still give you the same protection at running temp of 180 deg F, 80 deg Cel. Now, if your engine is making bad noises because of thin oil, it is because you have worn out some bearings or bushings somewhere, and the oil gap is much wider than it was when new, and you might need a thicker oil to get the same performance. I would suggest a 0W40 or 5W40, so that you still get the good flow characteristics of the thinner oil in startup, but it will remain thicker when the engine is hot.
What I noticed in 4 years of analyzing oil from trucks, diesel and gas, is that the biggest problem with oil is dirt contamination through bad air filters. If you are really worried about your oil, check and consider replacing your air filter. I have found that the oil-type like K&N are really good at reducing dirt, but regular ones can be just as effective. A problem with aftermarket filters is fittiment, and if there is any cracks in the air intake system, from a cheap supplier that did not fit the intake properly, you will get unfiltered air into your engine, and you may as well sell it if you are gonna run it like that!
worked as a mechanic for a family trucking business and we used wolfshead straight 30 in all of our kenworths that have close to a million miles on them never had a problem.....also use the same stuff in the original engine in my truck and when i pulled it with 160000 miles on it i could still see the cross hatch pattern in the cylinder bores. also never heard the rockers or lifters tap once. using the same oil in the new motor 12000 miles no probs so far.
the heavier the oil the better when it comes to preventing engine wear,
on the preformance side of things the thinner the oil the easeir the crank
can spin so more horsepower,
go faster or last longer
mind out of the gutter please
lol
on the preformance side of things the thinner the oil the easeir the crank
can spin so more horsepower,
go faster or last longer
mind out of the gutter please
lol
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