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1991 Sierra Starts then quits

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  #11  
Old 06-18-2011, 10:58 PM
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Sorry cubpak I was responding to VagasVince. On your truck it sounds like something different. If yours try's to die when you press the brake you probably have a vacuum leak in the booster. Do you hear any hissing when you press the brake from inside the truck? The vacuum leak test you described is also a good thing as that is a known issue on the TBI trucks, but usually will result in a higher than normal idle depending on how bad the leak is.
 
  #12  
Old 06-18-2011, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Shamrock
Sorry cubpak I was responding to VagasVince. On your truck it sounds like something different. If yours try's to die when you press the brake you probably have a vacuum leak in the booster. Do you hear any hissing when you press the brake from inside the truck? The vacuum leak test you described is also a good thing as that is a known issue on the TBI trucks, but usually will result in a higher than normal idle depending on how bad the leak is.
my bad on the response shamrock i drive teh truck every day so its not a bad leak and i cannot hear any hissing
ive replaced teh tbi gasket that helped alot
and it really only has this issue when the weathere temps is less then 75
but im goin to replace all the vacum lines on it next payday plus get a new intake manifold gasket thats gonna be a real fun project hints the sarcasm
also i will check the booster tomorrow
 
  #13  
Old 06-19-2011, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Shamrock
You could have ignition module in the distributor going bad when it runs long enough to get it hot. It will kill the truck instantly when it malfunctions. When it dies does it start back up right away or does it have to cool down?

Also a temp sensor can cause this although usually they will sputter before shutting down. Are you getting a check/service engine light?
Gentlemen,

Thanks for the warm welcome and i appreciate all of you guys chiming in here, i am so very frustrated.

The truck starts and idles as normal, then after two minutes you can begin to hear it sputter and then it finally quits. A re-start can be done about five minutes later but if i try right after it quits it won't start. Yes, i am getting the check engine light. So a few more follow up questions for you:

1) Do i have to replace the entire distributor or just the ignition module, is it one peice or two and how hard is it?

2) Where is the temp sensor located?

Thanks again Gentlemen and to all of you who are Fathers's, Happy Father's Day!

Big Vin
 
  #14  
Old 06-19-2011, 07:14 PM
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Get the code read first before replacing anything. Just about any auto parts store will read it for free.
To answer the 2 questions though...

1) You do not have to replace the entire distributor - it is a sensor mounted in the distributor

2) Temp sensor is located on the front of the intake right beside the thermostat housing
 
  #15  
Old 06-19-2011, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Shamrock
Get the code read first before replacing anything. Just about any auto parts store will read it for free.
To answer the 2 questions though...

1) You do not have to replace the entire distributor - it is a sensor mounted in the distributor

2) Temp sensor is located on the front of the intake right beside the thermostat housing
call and find out if they have an obd1 code reader thats what your truck has obd1 i
i know that the autoparts store where i live dont have that
 
  #16  
Old 06-21-2011, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Shamrock
Get the code read first before replacing anything. Just about any auto parts store will read it for free.
To answer the 2 questions though...

1) You do not have to replace the entire distributor - it is a sensor mounted in the distributor

2) Temp sensor is located on the front of the intake right beside the thermostat housing
Guys,

What does it mean, get the code read?

Vin
 
  #17  
Old 06-21-2011, 11:04 AM
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Your truck has a diagnostic port down on the lower drivers side of the dash. When you get a check engine light that means the computer has sensed an issue and will provide a code to point you in the right direction for repair. Before replacing parts it is a very good idea to see what code has been thrown so you don't go replacing a bunch of good parts. Your system is OBD1 which can be read by jumping 2 terminals in the diagnostic port. This will in turn make the check engine light flash giving you a 2 digit code. If you feel up to doing this we can walk you through the process.
 
  #18  
Old 06-21-2011, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Shamrock
Your truck has a diagnostic port down on the lower drivers side of the dash. When you get a check engine light that means the computer has sensed an issue and will provide a code to point you in the right direction for repair. Before replacing parts it is a very good idea to see what code has been thrown so you don't go replacing a bunch of good parts. Your system is OBD1 which can be read by jumping 2 terminals in the diagnostic port. This will in turn make the check engine light flash giving you a 2 digit code. If you feel up to doing this we can walk you through the process.
you can also do it the old school way and use a paperclip to jump the port it will make your service engine light come on and flash theres a forum on here for more info on that
 
  #19  
Old 06-23-2011, 07:28 PM
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I think your problem is a intermittent fuel pump.
Hard to diagnose .. will have to watch pressure gauge real close when you see pressure drop just before truck quits. Get a gauge with a tee adapter ... either at filter or back of tbi will connect.. should get 9 to 14 psi.
On the scan .. right under the dash at steering wheel will see a rectangle port.
Take a paper clip or wire bridge points a&b .. turn key to on position.
Will see check engine light flash once stop then flash twice.
Lets you know it is working.. Then it will start flashing codes as in 3 flashes then quick stop 2 flashes means egr . If need more explanation let us know.
But when it does not start back check see which is missing fuel or spark.
 
  #20  
Old 06-25-2011, 10:14 PM
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Default Success From Big Vin In Las Vegas

Originally Posted by Mr_Shamrock
Get the code read first before replacing anything. Just about any auto parts store will read it for free.
To answer the 2 questions though...

1) You do not have to replace the entire distributor - it is a sensor mounted in the distributor

2) Temp sensor is located on the front of the intake right beside the thermostat housing
Mr_Shamrock,

SUCCESS! It was the ignition control module the entire time. $40.00 at O'Reilly's and an hour to replace and the trcuk runs beautifully. I could not find a cheap code reader and the auto parts store wanted $300.00 up front to use then they would refund me so i took a gamble based on your advice and voila, works like a charm. Ran her for an hour staight today (It was 108 in Vegas today) and road tested on the highway and it's purrin!

I can't begin to thank you everyone who was kind enough to respond and to Mr_Shamrock in particular, the Luck Of The Irish was on my side today!

Thanks A Million!
Big Vin

PS -- Here's a picture of Big Blu!
 
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