done some work on my 88 Chev, New fuel pump assembly (float etc), fuel filter, fuel tank, (my baffle was broken and floating around). ran great for about 20 mins, then I blew a head gasket. I really hate putting so much money into a cheap truck but I have no other way around. can you guys think of a rough estimate on the price of 2 head gaskets + labor? 4-500?

 

That's about right so long as there aren't any valve train issues. Plane and true the head new gaskets and you should be good.

 

Honestly, tearing the engine down to the head gaskets shouldn't be too bad. I'd say buy a Haynes manual from Autozone and do it yourself. Will save you a bunch of money. Only real special tool that I can think of is a torque wrench and a card board box for the lifters.

Will take you some time because I'm assuming it's your first bead gasket job, but it shouldn't be too bad on a small block chevy. Personally, I've only done head gaskets on my 60° V6 in my Fiero. Now that was a big job for a first time head gasket.

If you've got the cash, I'd suggest having your heads inspected/rebuilt by a machine/engine shop while you've got 'em off the car. Can run you a bit of money, but if you have valve issues, now is a great time to have the heads gone over.

Good luck

 

its better than what happened to my friends cheyanne

started the engine and a rod shot right though his engine block

 

Replacing the head gasket isn't such a bad job. If you decide to do it yourself, remember, you still need to have the heads checks, and possibly machined so that they are true.

You can do the job with basic tools but you will need a torque wrench. You can borrow one from places like Autozone for a small returnable deposit.

You'll need the head gaskets, and while you're at it get a new intake manifold gasket, and front and rear manifold seals.

Make an index rack from a cardboard box for the push rods, because you need to get them back into the same locations you removed them from.

If your truck has an O ring at the distributor, might as well get a new one of them, too.

Leave the carb attached to the intake, disconnect the fuel line, the carb linkage, the kick down rod or cable, drain the radiator at least to a level below the bottom of the cylinder bank. Remove the top radiator hose from the thermostat housing, mark and pull the distributor, and wires.
Remove the valve covers, the intake manifold bolts, carefully remove the intake manifold and set it aside on a table or a piece of plywood (don't put it on the ground!) Remove the head bolts (keep them on order like the push rods), remove the heads.

It really isn't necessary to remover the rocker arms from the pedestals, but if you do, keep each rocker bolt and washer together, and index them, too.

before you put it all back together, clean everything! Buy a can of safety clean, and a couple of good wire brushes. If you don't have the heads checked (bad idea) and you're just going to put them back on, clean them well. Clean all the holes, even the bolt holes. Clean all the gasket surfaces, and be VERY particular about it. remember to clean the valve cover gasket surfaces, too.

Take your time an reassemble everything. keep everything clean, and don't forget to do the same with your hands. Dirty hands can deposit enough crap on a gasket to create a new leak. Dirt is not your friend!

Remember the torque specs for the head bolts, the intake bolts, the valve cover bolts and the rockers ( which will need to be readjusted). That not difficult, either, just follow the directions. Hints, it's easier to do with the spark plugs removed! You can turn the engine by with a socket and breaker bar to set the rockers, without fighting the compression.

It's not too tough, but you also need to make sure you've got the gasket in the right place and set the head back gently, and be sure to follow the torque sequence fir the head and intake manifold bolts. Remember to take the bolts down in about 3 steps. Don't tighten them one at a time. I usually doe the head bolts in four steps and the intake in 3 steps, especially if it's aluminum.

Plan on spending a weekend on it, a little longer if you need to have the heads machined.

Good Luck!

 

You'll want to torque the head bolts in order like so:



And according to chilton, torque first pass to 25ft. lbs, second pass 45ft. lbs, third pass 65 ft. lbs.

Intake Manifold gasket torque sequence:

\

Torque to 35ft. lbs

Thanks Razoo for writing that all out, btw

 

I'm a commercial mechanic apprentice so access to tools is unlimited. I can use our shop on a weekend that I'm not on call. Thanks for those instructions! I'll pick up a repair manual and get one of the journeymen to help out. Thanks guys, ill let you know how it goes !