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Corrosion issue and ventshades

  #1  
Old 03-29-2016, 07:06 AM
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Default Corrosion issue and ventshades

Well, spending the morning at Courtesy Gmc in Kingsport brought the truck in a week back for an alignment and the adjustment bolts stripped. Luckily they were able to keep it safe to drive, but going to have a nice big repair bill. Tech didn't act like this was unusual, road salt, but on a 2012? Seems a little early for that much corrosion road salt or no. But then, GMs love to rust. Probably will look into undercoat.

going to spend some birthday cash on a set of ventshades. What is your preference? In channel or tape-on. Going later today.
 
  #2  
Old 03-29-2016, 07:55 PM
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Update: Got the truck back and ready to roll. Also:


Went with tape on. Guy at Advance Auto voiced my concern... in channel look great but do I really want to damage a $200 window motor over a set of visors? Very pleased with them too!
 
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:47 AM
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I agree, stick on are the way to go.

Also, yes. Those upper control arm bolts hold packed snow/ice in the winter time, and it really takes its toll on them. If they've never been moved before, the factory frame undercoating likes to make them sticky, then they rust, then you try and turn them with all those factors and they break very easily. It isn't a terribly hard repair, but the bolts are a little pricey and it requires removing the upper control arms.
 
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Old 04-02-2016, 09:46 PM
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$226. Not panic money, but still more than I'd like to spend. The guys at Courtesy did a good job. Took a while though.

My truck has spent a lot of time in road salt, even the spare wheel has some rust. And its got that wonderful waxy undercoat that peels so well.

However, considering what I saved on it vs. comparable trucks in the area, I don't think it could rust enough to make up the difference.
 
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:51 PM
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if the upper eccentric bolts are seized in the bushings they can take more time to remove.
Never had this problem on something so new and I used to work in the rust belt.


Most problems come from tech not unloading the control arms when doing the adjustments. the alignment machine comes with an adjustment while jacked up function. Lifting the vehicle by the frame so the arms are unloaded allow the eccentrics to move easy. Once in a while an air hammer buzz to the bolt and some penetrating fluid and its free. Doing the adjustment with the truck on the grd or jacked on the lower control arm means you are fighting to lift the weight of the vehicle; asking for something to break.
 
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Old 04-06-2016, 01:08 PM
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I agree, but I've broken these bolts while trying to change the upper arm out for a ball joint issue. I had the joint separated from the knuckle and the upper bolts were glowing red from being warmed up with a torch ... sometimes there's just nothing you can do with them.

I tell ya though, boy do the new bolts turn nice and easy once they're replaced and adjusted properly with the alignment machine. Easiest camber/caster adjustment I've ever done on one of these trucks! Sure beats doing it on an express van .. holy smokes that sucked.
 
  #7  
Old 04-07-2016, 09:05 PM
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yep...some conversion vans are even worse.

I'm in rust free alberta now so the torch sits in the corner and gathers dust. don't miss the rust belt at all...and my 12 year old car is rust free.
 
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