Drivers lower door hinge pin replacement
#1
Drivers lower door hinge pin replacement
2012 GMC Sierra SLE 4X4. Drivers door lower hinge pin went bad. Found a DORMAN kit for my truck. Kit comes with a new pin and spring compressor tool.
I’ve change GM hinge pins on cars & trucks before without removing the hinge. You must remove the hinge on these trucks!
The tool is not the best. I modified the “V” on one side so I could get it farther in to the spring on the side that faces the door tension cam lever.
Be careful because that tool can slip off.
You will need a 10, 11, 12, and 13 mm wrench and sockets. There are two 10mm cap bolts that secure the hinge to the door; three 13mm cap bolts securing the hinge to the pillar and one 13mm cap bolt securing the hinge to the front of the pillar. I was able to work a 1/4” drive extension with swivel and a 13 mm socket between the open door and the fender but you can only get one of the 4 bolts that way.
Use a floor jack to support the door while you remove the hinge.
Once the hinge is off you can insert the tool in to the spring and tighten it down. You’ll need to tighten down quite a bit so the spring can clear the cam lever and a raised dimple on the hinge. Leave the spring compressed.
I used a air die grinder to remove the peened end of the old pin. Then I drove it out with a punch.
I filed off burrs from the cam tension lever because the worn out bushing formed a burr along the top and bottom edges. My finger is pointing to the burrs.
I used a 1/4” drive deep well socket to drive the new pin in to the pin bore.
The installation instructions are pretty clear about installing the new pin and bronze bushing and nut.
Lube the grease zerk on the end of the new pin before installing the repaired hinge back on to the door and jamb.
After I got done I thought it would have been better if I had put magic marker “witness marks” on the door and the pillar so when the hinge went back on I could get it exact and not have to goof around making adjustments for the door gap (reveal). It worked out OK but I should have done it.
I will try to post pictures.
I’ve change GM hinge pins on cars & trucks before without removing the hinge. You must remove the hinge on these trucks!
The tool is not the best. I modified the “V” on one side so I could get it farther in to the spring on the side that faces the door tension cam lever.
Be careful because that tool can slip off.
You will need a 10, 11, 12, and 13 mm wrench and sockets. There are two 10mm cap bolts that secure the hinge to the door; three 13mm cap bolts securing the hinge to the pillar and one 13mm cap bolt securing the hinge to the front of the pillar. I was able to work a 1/4” drive extension with swivel and a 13 mm socket between the open door and the fender but you can only get one of the 4 bolts that way.
Use a floor jack to support the door while you remove the hinge.
Once the hinge is off you can insert the tool in to the spring and tighten it down. You’ll need to tighten down quite a bit so the spring can clear the cam lever and a raised dimple on the hinge. Leave the spring compressed.
I used a air die grinder to remove the peened end of the old pin. Then I drove it out with a punch.
I filed off burrs from the cam tension lever because the worn out bushing formed a burr along the top and bottom edges. My finger is pointing to the burrs.
I used a 1/4” drive deep well socket to drive the new pin in to the pin bore.
The installation instructions are pretty clear about installing the new pin and bronze bushing and nut.
Lube the grease zerk on the end of the new pin before installing the repaired hinge back on to the door and jamb.
After I got done I thought it would have been better if I had put magic marker “witness marks” on the door and the pillar so when the hinge went back on I could get it exact and not have to goof around making adjustments for the door gap (reveal). It worked out OK but I should have done it.
I will try to post pictures.
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