front brake calipers sticking on both sides
#12
09-04-2015, 07:11 PM
I kinda wanna take a more simple viewpoint here. When you replaced your brake pads and calipers, when the pads were put into the caliper bracket, did they slide nicely inside the stainless clips, or did you have to force the pads to get them to move inside the stainless clips?
I only just now remembered about a car I was working on that would repeatedly come in for the right rear caliper would go through all its brake pads in a matter of 3 weeks. The thing that I found, after replacing the brake hose, caliper and bleeding the crap out of it, was that the outboard pad was setting too tight inside the brake caliper bracket, and once the pressure from the boosted hydraulic piston was released, the pad was never allowed to rest again.
Just a thought. Check to make sure your brake pads slide nicely inside the caliper bracket.
I only just now remembered about a car I was working on that would repeatedly come in for the right rear caliper would go through all its brake pads in a matter of 3 weeks. The thing that I found, after replacing the brake hose, caliper and bleeding the crap out of it, was that the outboard pad was setting too tight inside the brake caliper bracket, and once the pressure from the boosted hydraulic piston was released, the pad was never allowed to rest again.
Just a thought. Check to make sure your brake pads slide nicely inside the caliper bracket.
#13
09-08-2015, 12:12 PM
brakes are fixed now
After having the shop bleed the ABS system with the computer now my brake problem is fixed. If you do a search on you tube for ABS bleeding you can see some videos of what the shop did. They only charged me $40. My front brakes are not sticking anymore. @ Nullhead I did check the pads for binding like you mentioned. Everything mechanically with pads and sliders moves freely. I replaced the clips, sliders and boots for the sliders. Some of the reading about the ABS said that if air gets trapped in the ABS that just doing a normal brake bleed at the wheels will not remove the air on the newer vehicles that you have to have the ABS system bleed using scanner/computer. I hoped this post helps other people that may experience this problem.
#14
06-30-2019, 11:41 AM
Mine 2003 silverado
I have a 2006 z71 Crew cab with 5.3L and just over 200,000 miles on it. Pads on the front and drums on the back. Both front calipers were sticking. When I jacked the truck up I could barely turn the front wheels by hand. When I opened the bleeder on caliper then the caliper would release and I could turn the wheel. Both front calipers were doing this. Sliders were not sticking then moved freely. The outside pad (both drive and passenger sides) was worn out and the inside pad had plenty left. I replaced the rubber brake hose that attaches to caliper on driver and passenger side, replaced rotors and pads re-greased sliders. I sucked old brake fluid out of master cylinder (it was dark black) and filled it with new brake fluid and bleed the brakes at all 4 wheels until I had clean brake fluid coming out of bleeder at all 4 wheels. Gave it a short test drive came back front rims were very hot to touch. I jacked truck up and calipers are sticking again. I then replaced both front calipers, replaced sliders and the rubber boots and cleaned the holes very good and bleed front brakes and test drive. Now when I jack truck up and turn the wheels by hand there is some drag on them and they rims still get very hot to touch after a shot drive like 6 miles round trip at about 40 mph. My wife has a 2006 Tahoe with disc brakes, as a comparison I drive it and then touch the rims they are cool to touch. I jacked it up and can turn wheel by hand easy with no drag. The sliders are moving fine, the pads are not stuck or binding. I think the master cylinder is my next part to replace. I just wanted some more opinions to see if I'm overlooking something. The rear rims are not hot to touch after driving. Like I said it has drums on the rear. I have not checked them, you can tell when driving slow that the truck has some drag on it when you let off the gas pedal.
#15
10-10-2019, 07:26 PM
I have a 2006 z71 Crew cab with 5.3L and just over 200,000 miles on it. Pads on the front and drums on the back. Both front calipers were sticking. When I jacked the truck up I could barely turn the front wheels by hand. When I opened the bleeder on caliper then the caliper would release and I could turn the wheel. Both front calipers were doing this. Sliders were not sticking then moved freely. The outside pad (both drive and passenger sides) was worn out and the inside pad had plenty left. I replaced the rubber brake hose that attaches to caliper on driver and passenger side, replaced rotors and pads re-greased sliders. I sucked old brake fluid out of master cylinder (it was dark black) and filled it with new brake fluid and bleed the brakes at all 4 wheels until I had clean brake fluid coming out of bleeder at all 4 wheels. Gave it a short test drive came back front rims were very hot to touch. I jacked truck up and calipers are sticking again. I then replaced both front calipers, replaced sliders and the rubber boots and cleaned the holes very good and bleed front brakes and test drive. Now when I jack truck up and turn the wheels by hand there is some drag on them and they rims still get very hot to touch after a shot drive like 6 miles round trip at about 40 mph. My wife has a 2006 Tahoe with disc brakes, as a comparison I drive it and then touch the rims they are cool to touch. I jacked it up and can turn wheel by hand easy with no drag. The sliders are moving fine, the pads are not stuck or binding. I think the master cylinder is my next part to replace. I just wanted some more opinions to see if I'm overlooking something. The rear rims are not hot to touch after driving. Like I said it has drums on the rear. I have not checked them, you can tell when driving slow that the truck has some drag on it when you let off the gas pedal.
What fixed it for me was putting a washer on the 2 mounting bolts(one washer per mounting bolt) for the master cylinder to move the MC away from the booster just a tad. Its been 3 weeks and a lot of hwy driving and its fixed.
My pedal is just a little lower but i have brakes and the truck runs like a champ with all the new parts that i didnt need.
Hopefully this will work for others or help you in figuring it out.
Good luck.
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