Lift/tires/truck question's
 

Okay, I posted this here since it is a question about two things, but if I get more than a 4" suspension lift and tires bigger than 35" on a k1500 *or* 2500, then what all else do I need to change? Such as the ideler arms, ect. And what is the reasoning in that?

P.S. I am trying to learn because i''m getting a chevyhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adT...lass_10x10.gif 15 *or* 2500 and I will be getting a lift/bigger tires.

Also, how hard is it on the truck to add these things for every day driving? Our mechanic was saying it is real hard on them to get bigger tires and lifts, but he may of ment if you don''t change all the stuff that you guys suggest that you change?


Also, I thought about just getting a newer nicer truck in my price range regardless if it was 2wd or 4 then buying an old beater. If I did that I would probably get a body lift on the beater, so is there any changes you have to do it for the body lift since it just lifts the body? And what all would I have to get like 40" tires?

And what would your opinions be on getting a newer decent truck regardless if it's 2 or 4wd for everyday driving and leaving it stock and then getting an old beater for muddin? If I do that then I figured that some of my friends might decided to go to their mud spots and then I would have to drive alll the way home and back just to get my mud truck that is a downside and I love the looks of the newer trucks with lifts and bigger tires, so i'd miss that, but the good side is that im not being hard on my every day driver so ill more than likely have something to drive every day bc it'l be less likely to brake down :/

P.S. I am 16 w/6k so I am NOT trying to sit here and plan for stuff can't afford, I am thinking ahead of time like either way which ever I do will take a while bc i'd prolly go ahead and buy the nice truck now (Regardless of decision) and then a I get more money slowly start to add stuff)

Thanks,
Tyler.

I'd defenitely go with getting a couple trucks. Maybe its just that I'm so anal, but I would never take anything decent off road. You could get a real nice 98 or 99 pickup for around $4500 or $5k and then pick up one of the older 80's pickups for a grand.

hmm alright thank you! I appriceate it. When i'm looking at the newer trucks in that price range and then how many miles approx should I be looking at? I found a 95 silverado w/141k miles and with trucks with higher miles like that what kind of problems will i more than likely have? Smaller cheaper problems or bigger or does it really just depend on how the previous owner(s) have treated it and done w/ changing oil/filters ect and it is kind of just a guess?

BUM?P? Thanks, help on last question is appriceated! Actually all is.

It's ALL about personal maintenance...

I wouldn't have bought my 92 with 145,000 miles on it if I hadn't seen the truck or met the owner. Turns out he was a mechanic and before he owned it the truck sat in a barn for 10 years. No rust says a lot about maintenance up here, I don't know about where you live

It says quite a bit here to. Thank you for the advice. I've been trying to buy from either an older couple or from a mechanic and a vehicle that just has been taken better care of. Seems smarter in my opinion.

Well, i''m getting a truck in its early to mid 90''s (either k1500 *or* f150, which ever I can find a good deal on) and I would like to run 33''s, but no bigger. I will either get a body, *or* suspension depending on where I stand money wise. So let''s say I were to go with the body, then what do I buy to also raise the bumper? (My friend said I can just get a larger filler panel, is the correct *or* no?) and how much of a lift should I get for 33''s regardless if it''s a body *or* suspension lift?

How hard is it to install them yourself? How much extra would it cost approx for someone else to install a body lift? How about suspension? (The truck that I am have good feelings towards and going to look at is a 1993 4x4 F150 ext cab, 1 person owner by and elderly man)

Thanks, Tyler.

Well for the F-150 (80-96) you will only techically need to trim the bumper and fender. (However I would put a 2" body on it just to make it look right) for 97-03 F-150's you will need a 4" susp lift to get it done.
The Chevy (88-98) will need 3" of something (Body or Susp), (I had 33x12.50's on my 98 but had to trim the fender and bumper plus turn up the torsion bars, which I would not reccomend)

As far as the body lifts and bumper locations, you can get a bumper relocation kit and it will move the bumpers up to the right height. You can also get covers so that you cannot look inbetween the frame and body when they are seperated.

Another option is a leveling kit and the proper offset wheels on the right truck, you should be able to get your 33's under it pretty easy. Maybe just a little bit of trimming.

Any other questions you have??

Thank you!

Okay, I bought that Ford F150 for $2800.00 yesterday. I have not really had time to look at it, but I believe it is 3:55 as far as gearing and it is a 5.8 liter V8. It has slight rust right by the running boards and a little bit on the wheel wells. What is the best and cheapest way to fix that? What all are my options as far as fixing that? (Perfferably myself) What are the largest and widest tires in metric that I should be running with that gearing? (Don't have the money to be changing it, and a lift, and tires/wheels) It has stock everything that I see.
It has a new muffler, but it is clamped on instead of welded so it leaks through the exhaust so it sounds wierd when you rev it up, I think if I tighten it then it won't do that, is that correct or not?
As far as the body lift my friend was telling me that there is two parts, one for the body and one for the bed. Is that right? What brand should I be looking at? I want to put it on myself and I have a shop and boards I could use. I was going to just make a little pully system and hook the ropes to the top of the boards in the shop and hook them to the boards to lift the body, or something along those lines. Any suggestions for that?
Any help is appriceated!

Thanks,
Tyler

P.S. I could not find the bumper relocation kits like anywhere on google.

OK. What year F-150 did you get? That will let us know what we can tell you. As far as the rust, well there are many ways to do it, it all depends on how bad it is. Is it all the way through the skin? Or just surface rust. Is it through the fender well? Is it on the sides of the bed too? Is there rust under the floor in the cab? Is there rust under the cab by the rocker panels?

I could go on and on.

They sell the frame hiding kits, I have seen them before. If you decide that you are going with a body lift and want to relocate the bumpers and hide the frame, I will help you find what you are looking for.

Let me know what you are looking at.

It's a 1993 F150 4x4 ext cab long bed. There's rust on the wheel wells (Minor rust, barely chipped) and there is rust by where the running boards are, but that rust is quite a bit worst. It is all the way through barely on one side for about an inch and the rest is just rusted minor. I will try and get some pictures of it later.

When adding a body lift to a 1993 F150 4x4 ext cab long bed what all do you have to get besides the lift itself as far as parts go? What is some good brand lifts? I will do more research, but I figured it would be easiest to have you guys help out. (I'm getting a 3 in body lift)

Thanks, Tyler.

Tyler, As far as the rust goes, well you will have to either fabricate new panels and floor pans for the area thay needs the holes fixed, or buy replacement panels and then fit them onto the area that you need. (if it is the rocker panel or really complex piece and you don't have a metal fab shop at your disposal than go with buying the parts from a place like LMC or JC Whitney)
If there is no holes in the panels than you should be able to just kill the rust, sand it smooth, and then paint. Here is another option that is becoming more popular. If you dont have holes and want the rust to stop and also don't really care how it looks (not painted), you may also try and put a roll on bed liner material as paint in those rusted areas. I have seen people use it on the floor boards, on the kick panels, the rocker panels, on the bottom 3-5" of the body and even the entire vehicle.
If you choose to do this, it will stop the rust, water proof the area and will help with sound deadening. But you also need to do the bottom of the rust ares that are rusted through after you patch the areas.
If you don't choose to use the roll on bed liner, then you should use a rust inhibiting under coat before paint to stop it from getting any worse. After that, you should be able to paint it any color that you want and finish the areas.

It all depends on who you get the lift kit from and what it comes with. If it comes with the bumper relocation brakets than that is cool. (I would try and get one with the bumper kit)

Also if it comes with longer brake lines than that is cool too. (You may not need to have longer ones, but you don't want extend the brake lines anywhere near full length, they will break really easy and then you have no brakes)

I would get the frame hiders because you are going with the 3" lift and it will look really dorky if you don't. (you should be able to fit a 33"x12.50" tire or 34"x11" tire under that lift without having to trim fenders)


Is there anything that I missed or any other questions?