Engine will not crank

Hey All,

My ambition bit me in the butt and I'm looking for help with an electrical problem. I installed a power window kit in my 2011 Silverado 1500 WT. When I thought I was done, fired up the truck, pressed the window switch, and the engine cut out. Did not sputter, just died. At that point, I tested all the fusees (all okay) and disconnected with windows. The truck started and ran for about five seconds before cutting out again. Haven't been able to get it to crank since.

Power windows were connected to an ignition switch wire below the steering wheel (pink, 12V KOEO). Now, this ignition switch wire is cold always.
Dash lights, radio, headlights - all work normally with key turned to accessory but the starter is silent when turning the key to crank.
Power window kit is from A1 Electric (GM83-109A-K)

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

 

Spent much of Thanksgiving researching about the "5v Reference Circuit", and all of this morning under the hood. I can cross a couple things off the list but am not really any closer to fingering the culprit.

Any info on DLIS fuse? 2amp What does it protect? This blew during the window installation.
What sensors would stop the truck from cranking?
Any advice on testing the Ign Ctrl Module itself?

Here's what I've learned:

• Ignition Switch OKAY
  • swapped the ignition switch, transponder immobilizer, and lock cylinder from a friend's working 1500. No improvement.
  • 5v coming from BCM as normal [white], BUT
  • 0v on the starting wire [pink] (also connected to BCM)
• Starter: OKAY
  • 12v constant from batter is good
  • no voltage to the signal post (on the solenoid) when turning key to crank
  • Pulled the starter relay and jumped from the 12v-constant post to what should be the solenoid signal post but it still didnt crank...
  • Pulled the starter to get to the CKP; bench tested; all is okay.
• Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) UNKNOWN
  • this is a 3-wire sensor
  • 5v supplied with key on to the two outside wires (blk/wht & purple/wht)
  • ?? even if the CKP was bad, the truck should still crank, correct?
• 5v Ref Circuit is live at the mass airflow sensor (key on)
• NEXT STEPS
  • test Park/Neutral Position Switch
  • tow it to a shop
  • work down the list of killer advice from you fellas

Starting to feel desperate.

 

I'm sorry, I really wish I could help. All too often when we work on these later model trucks we end up cutting into what we think is a 12v power source but ultimately end up cutting into a data supply.