Hey.... I would just like some advice and run a procedure by everyone to see if I am missing anything... So here goes. I more/less retired from vehicle restorations because of age/arthritis and the fact that we moved from a rural area where I had a full shop to the metro area where I have a glorified heated two car garage. I didn't want a major restoration project so I bought a 1995 C1500 Chevy W/T that had a newer perfect box but needed a ton of little fixes but has less than 80,000 miles..... and they all turned out well. Now I am going to try to replace the cab corners on both sides... bought some el cheapos off Ebay and have watched a ton of videos on "how to".... but remember, I no longer have any kind of hoist or tools and don't really know enough people in our new location to get any help to lift the bed off....... so here is the plan. After watching the videos it appears there are eight bolts holding the box/bed on the frame... there is the gas tank filler tube and ground wire... and there are some electrical wires on the back end of this.... What I would like to do is to remove the bolts, and disconnect the fuel filler tube... etc... and simply use my floor jack to lift the front of the box high enough to be able to cut/weld etc new cab corners in on both sides instead of removing the entire box.... When done, simply lower the front end of the bed back in place, replace the bolts and wiring etc... and it's a done deal.... Now.... what am I missing? Suggestions/ideas very much welcome and appreciated... PS All this so I don't have to remove the box..... and can work/weld the cab corners in place....
Your plan seems solid, but there are a few things to consider. First, make sure the floor jack you’re using is stable and can handle the weight of the bed. You might want to use a piece of wood or a thick board under the jack to distribute the weight evenly. It’s also a good idea to have some type of support under the bed once you lift it, just in case the jack slips. Be careful when disconnecting the electrical wires and the fuel filler tube to avoid damage. You could also label the wires or take pictures before disconnecting them for easier reassembly. When you're ready to weld the cab corners, be sure to protect any nearby parts from sparks or heat. After everything is welded, check that the bed is properly aligned before lowering it back down.
professor229
Dec 6, 2024 04:04 AM
update
Originally Posted by NioMarvin83
(Post 89799)
Your plan seems solid, but there are a few things to consider. First, make sure the floor jack you’re using is stable and can handle the weight of the bed. You might want to use a piece of wood or a thick board under the jack to distribute the weight evenly. It’s also a good idea to have some type of support under the bed once you lift it, just in case the jack slips. Be careful when disconnecting the electrical wires and the fuel filler tube to avoid damage. You could also label the wires or take pictures before disconnecting them for easier reassembly. When you're ready to weld the cab corners, be sure to protect any nearby parts from sparks or heat. After everything is welded, check that the bed is properly aligned before lowering it back down.
Thanks and yes, all good advice.... but I didn't have to even go that far.... I could get at everything I needed to get to without disturbing the bed..... yes, a shortcut but it went very well and I am into "innovations" and "alternative ways of doing projects" and in this case, it worked out really well.... I cut any of the rusted areas away and then cleaned up the areas around it, getting it down to good metal.... then I placed the cab corner in place so that I could mark where the exact cuts would be and used an overlap method on the back of the cab.... I clamped the new cab corner in place after applying a generous amount of sealant/glue called "marine sealant" that I have used successfully on a lot of boats... .best product ever made and sold at Menards.... $12 a tube and worth it... I let this cure overnight and the next day started welding the rest that I could get to.... and that too, went extremely well.... used a 4.5 grinder to clean up the welds and didn't have to use any bondo..... prepped for paint and used the "roller" method which I used on the entire truck when I painted it... yes, I have a gun, but not the shop anymore to use a gun.... so several coats of paint rolled on with a bunch of sanding and finally some color sanding at the end, gave me the 20 footer that is good enough for this daily driver.... There is literally no bondo in it, and it is a 1995 Chevy C1500 with only 81,000 miles on it.... Ironic that this is an old post, because this is the first winter in many decades that I haven't restored something.... age/arthritis so I am cutting back.... and the only project I am going to do this winter, after January first, is to start grinding rust on the underside of the truck... all surfaces, treating them with Rust Reformer as I go.... then prime them with an acrylic paint that is the wrong color (army green) but was the right price.... and then when that has cured, I will change the army green color to black by shooting it with undercoating..... best an amateur can do without removing the box and more/less an attempt at preserving the truck for the next owner..... This will be done over the course of a couple weeks... I an now, never in a hurry!!! Thanks for the advice..... Love the truck.... sold my other two daily drivers... 2007 HHR with a ton of miles and a 2004 Ranger with a salvage title.... traded both in on a new Mazda CX-5...... Pretty much done with restoration work now after decades... sad times, but out of necessity... my wife doesn't believe me.... LOL, but I am done.... and will only do maintenance from now on.... oil changes, and wax..... Have a good Christmas everyone..... Dennis
