Ultimate Free Horsepower Mod List
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 408
From:
RE: Ultimate Free Horsepower Mod List
ORIGINAL: MrLM7
I started on this thread a long time ago, and I think some people on the forum havn't been on here long enough to see it... So here it is... can somebody say "STICKY"?
These mods are for the 99+ trucks/SUVs withV8 engines...
2. "Mass Air Flow Sensor ScreenRemoval"- To do this, you just loosen the clamps around the sensor with a flathead screwdriver, slide the tube to the side and then remove the sensor from the airbox. CAREFULLY unclip and remove theconnection. With the sensor screen side down, VERY CAREFULLY push the screen out with the end of something (Craftsman ratchet handle works well), MAKE SUE YOU DO NOT HIT THE SENSOR WIRES!!! People have seenunfavorable results from this modification by hitting the sensor wires!!!Put it back together and be sure to securely fasten the connection and air tube. Money saved- $300-compared to an aftermarket MAF sensor.
4. "Throttle Body Coolant Bypass"- On the bottom side of your throttle body, there are two hoses. These hoses bring hot coolant through your throttle body and like the pads, assist in cold weather startup. Do you realize how much better your truck runs when it's cold, (temp gauge at or below 160)? When it gets warmed up, (gauge at 205-210), throttle resonse is greatly reduced. This mod wiil let you have that throttle response all the time.This mod DOES COST YOU ABOUT TEN DOLLARS. All you need is a 12" piece of steel brakeline, (I forget the size, but I remember it was two from the smallest this Auto Zone had.I've got the tag somewhere, though. If you need to know, just send me a message!!!), and two clamps that fit on those hoses (less than 1" diameter). Get the screw kind. Make sure you clamp off the hose between the manifold and the TB with apair of Vise Grips to keep the fluid from leaking out.Use a tubing cutter to cut the line at both endsand remove the fittings. You then remove the hoses from the throttle body and put brakeline in both of them and clamp it up. Then remove the Vise Grips.When you've clamped it tight, refill your coolant as needed. Money saved- N/A
I started on this thread a long time ago, and I think some people on the forum havn't been on here long enough to see it... So here it is... can somebody say "STICKY"?
These mods are for the 99+ trucks/SUVs withV8 engines...
2. "Mass Air Flow Sensor ScreenRemoval"- To do this, you just loosen the clamps around the sensor with a flathead screwdriver, slide the tube to the side and then remove the sensor from the airbox. CAREFULLY unclip and remove theconnection. With the sensor screen side down, VERY CAREFULLY push the screen out with the end of something (Craftsman ratchet handle works well), MAKE SUE YOU DO NOT HIT THE SENSOR WIRES!!! People have seenunfavorable results from this modification by hitting the sensor wires!!!Put it back together and be sure to securely fasten the connection and air tube. Money saved- $300-compared to an aftermarket MAF sensor.
4. "Throttle Body Coolant Bypass"- On the bottom side of your throttle body, there are two hoses. These hoses bring hot coolant through your throttle body and like the pads, assist in cold weather startup. Do you realize how much better your truck runs when it's cold, (temp gauge at or below 160)? When it gets warmed up, (gauge at 205-210), throttle resonse is greatly reduced. This mod wiil let you have that throttle response all the time.This mod DOES COST YOU ABOUT TEN DOLLARS. All you need is a 12" piece of steel brakeline, (I forget the size, but I remember it was two from the smallest this Auto Zone had.I've got the tag somewhere, though. If you need to know, just send me a message!!!), and two clamps that fit on those hoses (less than 1" diameter). Get the screw kind. Make sure you clamp off the hose between the manifold and the TB with apair of Vise Grips to keep the fluid from leaking out.Use a tubing cutter to cut the line at both endsand remove the fittings. You then remove the hoses from the throttle body and put brakeline in both of them and clamp it up. Then remove the Vise Grips.When you've clamped it tight, refill your coolant as needed. Money saved- N/A
Not trying to bust on the thread so please don't take offense:
The MAF is designed to even the airflow out across the sensor wires. Removing the screen can screw up your AF ratio which can cause detonation if you don't tune for it. You may not be able to tell there's detonation until it's too late. The sensor on the stock MAF is calibrated to work with the screen in place. That's why if you do remove it, you need to have someone with tuning capabilities compensate for the change. I'm not saying anyone is wrong and to not do it, I'm just saying you should be tuned to compensate for it.
The throttle body by-pass can be done without spending money. The hose that is on the left of the throttle body can be removed from the TB and is long enough to reach the right side where the other hose goes into the block. Also, the mod is not going to give any noticeable gains. The coolant circulates through the throttle body and warms it to prevent any icing in cold climates. The air isn't in that small bit of TB long enough to affect the temperature. I'm not saying it isn't worth doing, I'm saying you're not going to notice any gains. Sorry LM7, but it's not going to make it feel like your engine is running as if it were 160°. It's even been dynoed and no differences were noted. Bottom line: it doesn't hurt, but any gains are minimal or even non-existant. But, again, it's free and doesn't hurt if you don't live in a cold, cold, climate.
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,725
RE: Ultimate Free Horsepower Mod List
ORIGINAL: DamnYankee
The MAF is designed to even the airflow out across the sensor wires. Removing the screen can screw up your AF ratio which can cause detonation if you don't tune for it. You may not be able to tell there's detonation until it's too late. The sensor on the stock MAF is calibrated to work with the screen in place. That's why if you do remove it, you need to have someone with tuning capabilities compensate for the change. I'm not saying anyone is wrong and to not do it, I'm just saying you should be tuned to compensate for it.
The MAF is designed to even the airflow out across the sensor wires. Removing the screen can screw up your AF ratio which can cause detonation if you don't tune for it. You may not be able to tell there's detonation until it's too late. The sensor on the stock MAF is calibrated to work with the screen in place. That's why if you do remove it, you need to have someone with tuning capabilities compensate for the change. I'm not saying anyone is wrong and to not do it, I'm just saying you should be tuned to compensate for it.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 408
From:
RE: Ultimate Free Horsepower Mod List
My only point in posting what I did was that there have been people with those issues. I know not everyone has them. Part of my point was also that people DO have those problems and don't even know it. They don't know their AF is off because they never get it checked. A vehicle can run perfectly fine with a screwed up AF ratio.
I just think potential detonation due to screwed up AF ratio (which most people don't know is a problem until it's too late) is something that should be included as a warning when suggesting it as a beneficial mod.
Trying to help here, not attack anyone who has done this. To act like detonation is nothing to worry about is asking for trouble.
I just think potential detonation due to screwed up AF ratio (which most people don't know is a problem until it's too late) is something that should be included as a warning when suggesting it as a beneficial mod.
Trying to help here, not attack anyone who has done this. To act like detonation is nothing to worry about is asking for trouble.
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 43
From:
RE: Ultimate Free Horsepower Mod List
I haven't tried this but am kicking it around. I plan on putting a K&N FIPK II on my 2K Tahoe, 5.3. Yes, the K&N ain't cheap, but I like the idea of the tubular intake tube over the stock tube with it's flattening out over the radiator shroud. Once the K&N is in place, the heat shield will overlap the edge of the radiator. There is a flap that runs up the length of the side tank on the radiator. If this is removed, or rolled back our of the way in case you want to roll it back wouldn't it let the air straight in to the filter? Also, there is a plate in front of the air box/behind the headlight assembly. If that were removed the air would have a straight shot through the headlight assembly to the filter. It seems to me that these two simple mods would let the outside cool air get straight to the filter. Because the filter is so close to the front there might be the issue of water or other things hitting the filter directly. K&N makes a filter wrap that is suppose to keep most of the water off the actual filter. I have emailed them to see if they think this would be sufficient protection for the filter if these to pieces were removed. Did any of that make sense?
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 43
From:
RE: Ultimate Free Horsepower Mod List
Here are a couple of links to other threads in this forum. Both deal with some of the things being talked about here, mainly CAI's and MAF's.
https://www.truckforums.com/m_30918/tm.htm
https://www.truckforums.com/m_27931/mpage_3/key_/tm.htm
https://www.truckforums.com/m_30918/tm.htm
https://www.truckforums.com/m_27931/mpage_3/key_/tm.htm
