I hear ya there!

Note: when I did my intake, it took a few days for the computer to adjust to it. It kinda makes your MAF go .If you do the manufacturer drive test , it seems to adjust faster. You need a good open road with no one around to do it.

 

I have heard a little about the computer needing time to adjust. What did you mean about your drive test? Do you have to run it wide open? And do you know the reasoning in why it does that? This seems to be a good topic all in itself about the engines computer.

 

I googled one up a while back but cant find it right now. Here is an example of one for Chevy. Ill see if I can find the exact one you need tonight. Mine only takes a few days every time I performed one. The engine light may come on during a reset cycle , most of the time its just a pending code until it clears after the test.


Perform computer relearn procedure as follows: 1 Trip or cycle consists of
starting the vehicle and allow it to warm up. Place the vehicle in Drive with foot on brake and let idle for 1 min. Take vehicle for a drive accellerating at normal throttle position 20-50% of full throttle,until it shifts into top gear. Cruise at light to medium throttle.Decelerate to a stop allowing the vehicle to downshift and use brakes normally.Process may be repeated as necessary for the computer to relearn all performance strategies.May take up to 40 trips for a complete re-learn.

 

wow thats cool. I don't think I have any roomy roads nearby for me to do that. I can get my truck to 120+ with 50% throttle. It scares me to give it that for very long at that speed. And 4th gear doesn't kick in until after 90 with the peddal more than a third of the way down. Do you think maybe jacking the rear end off the ground could work? lol I'm a little affraid to try that too. But I'm getting ready to make a 17 hr trip in a couple days so maybe that will help I don't know.

 

The tests can be done by going no faster than 65-70 mph.

I would'nt recommend jacking the rear tires off the ground for safety reasons, but im not your mother.

 

Ok, here is the one I used. I have a 6.0 as well.

This is a good site to understand OBDII systems ----> http://www.obdii.com/obdii.html





To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

• Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
  
• Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
  
• Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
  
• Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  
• Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
  
• Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
  
• Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
  
• Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

 

Now that I thought about that, that wont work, it might even make it worse. It needs to be on rollers under a load like the smog places have to do it that way.

 

Yeah thats true there would be no load on the vehicle if it was raised up. Thanks for the tip. I had no idea that it was that thorough.