05 silverodo wheel hub refuses to pull out with slide hammer

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#11

09-07-2011, 05:03 PM

H1guy

Junior Member

Join Date: Jun 2011

Posts: 17

I too have had a lot of trouble with hubs in aluminum knuckles. I have actually had to use a press on chevy equinox's and some hubs wouldn't pop until almost 30 tons of pressure. I have actually seen a guy that totally destroyed a knuckle by smashing it multiple times while on the car still with a sledge hammer. by the time the hub was removed the knuckle was almost powder. He didn't work for us too much longer after that.

#12

09-08-2011, 03:25 AM

lortech

Junior Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: May 2011

Posts: 9

machinest said 300 rpms

talked to a machinist and he said never exceed 500 rpms on the hss steel drill bits. That is 5 revolutions per second.

NOW I am looking for a drill that will do 500 rpms and will be 1/2 inch chuck. Prefer right angle drill electric. Also, is there a jig that can bolt onto the lower control arm to hold the drill in place before drilling rivets? It would be like a mini drill press with lever to raise and lower the drill bit. That would save me the aches of pressing on those rivets with the drill for such a long time. The right angle drill would be used in tight spaces such as water pump bolt replacements. Should the drill bit also be dipped in water to keep it cool? I do not do that and use cutting fluid.

Quote:

Originally Posted by H1guy

Actually I just buy the cheaper drill bits from Canadian tire now and use my drill doctor on them when they get dull. I have a $300 set of snap-on drill bits at work that burn out faster than my cheap HSS bits from Canadian tire. Drill doctors are a very good and fairly cheap investment if you do a lot of drilling with hard metals. Speed is a big factor but so is lubrication. My drills are mostly air drills so I just have a regulator to regulate the air flow.

As for the rivet with the flush head. If you can't get enough room to drill it out from underneath then your best bet is to either grind it down flush with the control arm just enough that you can see the body size of the rivet. Then start your pilot hole and work your way up in sizes.

#13

09-23-2011, 02:32 PM

lortech

Junior Member

Thread Starter

Join Date: May 2011

Posts: 9

Just found out best way to remove the hub.

I got lots of different replies. This is the best one if the truck is in the rust belt. Apply a liberal use of penetrating oil on the wheel hub to spindle mating surface. Use a heavy Muffler gun and put the cutting bit on the ear of the wheel bearing and then start applying enough counter or clock wise force on the wheel bearing hub. Work it back and forth using penetrating oil and it will come off.

If I ever knew or thought of this, the job would not have been a big and expensive ordeal.

#14

03-07-2014, 01:11 AM

stevehendo34

Beginner

Join Date: Mar 2011

Posts: 1

Put the botom two bolts in all but a 1/8 in or so. Use short extension and deep socket between bolt and low on shock tower. Have friend turn the wheel. Move to other side put socket and extention on other bolt and on lower control arm notch and have them turn the wheel the other way. Lossen bolts some more and repeat. Truck is hydrolic press--don't bend tie rods.

The guys at the shop told me they remove the axle and push it out with one of those red body ram things. I have an old monster screw jack I bought to do this but haven't had to do it since I found it.