The oil has no effect on the ses lite on that 95.

You can "flash" the codes yourself on a pre-96...or hit auto zone.


OI'll tell ya right now,you have a code 32 egr valve bad...most likely.if so..get a DELCO valve and the little solenoid.....aftermarket valves may not keep the lite off.


flashing codes....do you know where the "ALDL" connector is...under the dash by your knee.

make a simple jumper wire and jump the first 2 terminals together...(unless someone mounted it upside down...hope not)...

key on...watch the lite.it will flash a code "12" (flash....pause.......flash-flash)...it will do that THREE times,which means the system is alive....after the third code 12 flash,it will begin flashing any trouble codes....lowest ones first.

a code 13 (o2 sensor).....flash...pause....flash-flash-flash


the 32 I'm betting you have.....flash-flash-flash...pause......flash-flash

 

Huh. I'd like to see that. Is it the same on a 95 Z28 Argon? Will it only tell you what the code is when the light stays on? My check engine light flashed at me a while back when my tranny started acting up and it started having idle issues. It doesn't come on now though. Does it store the trouble codes or if it flashes does that make it only temperary?

 

this all stopped in 96 when OBD2 came out (a different connector)...so its not well known info.


remember guys,we are only talking 95 and older,which includes your z-28.(there ARE some crossbreeds,like s-10 blazers)

the lite comes on as your driving...then goes off.If the lite goes off the fault is no longer "current"...the Ecm will continue to test the faulty area....if it passes 3 times,the code clears and she's gone.

ok,flashing codes...look at your aldl connector...the older ones are "squarish....not rounded like a new one.
the "top" rowof holes has fewer holes than the "bottom" row...even if its dangling,or put back upside down.
(make sense???)..there are maybe 8 holes on what we call the top row....maybe 10 on the bottom,so it looks like a pyramid as you look at it.

Ok,the upper left 2 TOP holes...jump those together....key on....it flashes a code 12 THREE times,just to confirm that you did it right....then she begins flashing codes...lowest ones first......when done,it goes back to a 12.

some popular codes on pre-96...

code...13.........o2 sensor(they only had 1)
15.........temp
22....TPS
32...Egr
44...lean
45...rich

 

hey argon would a OBD1 aldl cable hooked to a laptop and getting software be good enough for a code reader? ive heard of people doing this for custom tuning also, just want some clarity on that.

 

not that I know of...also,and obd 1 connector is dying fast...at least at the dealership level.We seldom see 1 anymore...

back in the days...people would go buy a code reader ...you plugged it in,and an led flashed codes.what a ripoff it was...all you needed was a paperclip to jump it yourself and flash the ses lite

 

YOU SHOULD JUST PUT YOUR KEY IN AND TURN IT BEFORE YOU TURN IT ON, U NOW WHEN ALL THE LIGHTS TURN ON.....LEAVE IT THERE AND PRESS AND HOLD YOUR BRAKE FOR 15-30 SECONDS...DO IT LIKE 3 TIMES THEN TURN ON YOUR TRUCK...IF THAT DOESNT WORK, DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY FOR 5 MIN AND SEE IF IT RESETS ITS SELF....IF NOT THAT WOULD BE A GREAT EXCUSE TO BUY YOUR SELF A SUPERCHIPS PROGRAMMER WHICH ALSO HAS AN OB2 CODE READER OR JUST BUY A CHEAP OB2 READER ATPEP BOYS OR AUTO ZONE...I EVEN THINK THEY WILL LONE YOU ONE WITHREFUNDABLE DOWN PAYMENT

 

autozone checks it free while other parts places charge, but they can be kind of vauge sometimes best check is a diagnostic at a shop.

 

Hi guys, kinda new to the forums, I have a 1995 silverado sports package with a 350 TBI K code with 211,000 miles on it,Flowmaster exhaust,auto trans with overdrive and crusie control
here's the story behind it, first let me say that I deliver pizza in this truck, so a lot of miles on the engine and the wear and tear of the daily abuse I think has gotten to the old girl, while on delivery, I noticed Blue,grey whitish smoke coming from engine compartment, I checked it out after having made the delivery and the rear of the block and the tranny are covered in oil, (Assuming Rear main seal is gone).have gotten a manual for the truck, planning on just rebuilding the engine as the high mileage on the old girl, it's been a feww moons since I have tackled an engine rebuild need some pointers as to which direction to start in first as to make this as painless as possible on the rebuild ( want to make sure that I ain't makin things worse from inexperience) last time I rebuilt an engine was in the mid 80's and the car I worked on was a toyota corolla ( TC3 engine). while I realize that there have been major upgrades to the engines of today the basic engine is still the same.Just needing some feed back as to the difficuly of rebuilding
thanks
Mower

 

I hate to bring this thread back, but im having some related difficulties. I had a code 15 after the 12, so i fixed it which was the coolant temp sensor. When I start it to read the codes though the service engine soon light wont quit flashing, when I pull the code reader out the light goes off with it running. any help?

 

I think you will get a better result if you make a different thread about it. Just because a lot of people will not answer out of principle (otherwise it could encourage ppl to necropost which they don't like). Alternatively you could look this kind of thing up using a repair manual.