Did a bit more wiring and the hiding of wires. All I have left is to hookup speaker wires from my amp to my subs (Should I combine the positive from one sub and the positive from the other sub to the one positive out of the amp?)

And.... to find out whats wrong with my hookup. When I have the receiver's bass (no sub is hooked up), at normal, there's a cracking/popping sound when listening to audio. It pops at a higher frequency if I turn the volume louder or turn the bass up. Im thinking of taking it to the closest auto store and seeing if they can figure out whats wrong (if they charge under 20.00)

any ideas?

 

A sub amp should only need two channels. Mono block amps have a left and right input then the output is one speaker terminal.

 

PM me if you need more help.

 

Thanks yall. I appreciate the patience youre taking to help me. Yeah, I was saving the subs for last. It has a red and white connector on the sub. I mistook that for a RCA. If you press the red and white connectors down, it opens up a hole to put the speaker wire in.

So I just need to hook the positive and negative in from the left sub to to the positive and negative out from the amp? And do the same for the right sub? So 2 total wires total go out from each +/- on the amp?

And to the problem I ran across earlier... I have everything hooked up besides the amp and subs. I was testing the speakers and the receiver. If I turn the volume up to 16 (max volume is 50 on receiver), I hear a popping/clicking Sound. If I turn the volume up, I hear the popping and cracking sounds more often. If I turn the receiver bass up, it also comes on more often. I can't figure out why its doing that. I made sure all the receiver cramps to the deck were secure. I'm thinking It's because I left the factory tweeters on (the small speakers along the front side of the car). It seems like the audio signal goes out from the receiver, factory split in the door to the tweeter and also ran to the door speaker. I just clipped the old speakers off, cramped the new speakers to the old wire, and didn't change the tweeter because the new tweeter didn't fit. I HOPE thats why its popping. So I just need to clip off the old tweeters and leave it open? Im thinking about going to a local auto shop and asking if they can tell me why it pops (if they can do it for under 20)

Here's some specs/pics/data/audio:

Amp: Alpine MRP-M500
Per channel output into 4 ohms: <1% THD+N, 14.4V, 300Wx1
Per channel output into 2 ohms: <1% THD+N, 14.4V, 500Wx1
Input Inpedance: RCA IN: 20k ohms | SP IN: 40K ohms
Frequency Response: 20-200Hz

Sub (2): Kicker TC10--C
Normal Impedance: 4ohm
Sensitivity: 93.8dB
Power Handling Watts, Peak: 300 (150) RMS

Receiver: JVC KD-HDR60

Audio (Of Popping from my iPhone):
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/pop.mp3

Pics: (It was too dark outside to get good sub pics, so I took a pic of the box)
Sub Box:
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_80.JPG
My Receiver Hookup:
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_77.JPG
Amp Cables:
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_79.JPG

 

Ooohhh its kind of a mismatch there. That amp is too much for them subs. You need 2 subs with bout 300w RMS. That amp can either run 500w or 150w to both subs. If you hook them up at 2 ohms this will put out 500w RMS and thats too much for them subs.

 

I haven't even hooked up my subs yet. But you're saying for when I do; The amp is too much for the subs? Darn. I went to a different city's best buy to get the equipment. He said it would be all I needed. The sub says 300w (150) max RMS. So either both of them in 150 equal 300, or each of them can be ran in 300w? The amp says it can do 300w in 4ohms and 500w in 2ohms.

I'm more worried about the current issue of popping, but as for the subs, what should I do about that? I posted the specs above.

 

If you hook up them subs in parallel that would put a 2 ohm load which would make the amp put out 500w RMS, the subs are only rated 300w total RMS together.

 

thanks RUFFNECK4LYFE

I was out all day trying to experiment with the popping. Im leaving it at a friends for a few hours, as he says he can try to fix the popping.

when i get it back today, im going to hookup the amp and sub. hopefully there will be a way to hook them up. In the amp details, it says it can do 300w in 4ohms, and 500w in 2ohms. is there a way I can wire the amp to only use 300w by using 4ohms?

And by making the amp use 500w when the subs only use 300w (150 each) would cause harm? It wouldnt just not use the extra 200w? And how about wiring the subs in series and making them use 300 each instead of 150? (I think thats how it works). So that way the subs require 600 total, and the amp puts out 500w. I just wont use the sub to the max capabilities since the lack of power?

Yeah, like you said, might be easier to explain over the phone. I'll most likely give a call when I get to it.

thanks

But if you could post a followup so I can read in the meantime while my popping issue is getting worked with, I can at least know a little before hand.

 

Ok hooking them up in series adds resistance or OHMS. Since I am assuming you have single voice coil subs, this would put them at an 8 ohm load which would be about 150w. Only way to work it to put a 4 ohm load is if the subs have dual voice coils at 2 ohms each. Thats what I mean when you shop around for sub equipment you gotta match it close so you can work with it.

 

okay. we fixed the sound popping issue. turns out it was a bad adapter that came with the speakers. The factory tweeters his/pop only at real high volumes, so im thinking of just disabling those.

but my problem now is my subs. i tried testing only one sub hooked to the amp, and it seems like it barely comes on. my rear factory speakers produce more bass than than sub. I hoped i could somehow make it work and that what you said about being incompatible hopefully somehow worked right, but eh.

What would you suggest I do? Is there ANY way to use my existing subs? Or should I try returning the subs even though Im past 30 days..