I went to the dealership today to get this clunk looked at. I thought it was the steering column lubrication problem. But after spending $98 on getting that looked at I was told that it was only part of the issue, the other part being loosing chassis bolts. I was told that there was another TSB out about it. anyone ever deal with this issue, and is it something I could do myself. Please Help ME[sm=dontgetit.gif]
03 Silverado 1500 4X4 Z71

 

Here are 12 TSBs on your one problem - Christ...
1.)TSB #000235003 -- CLUNKING NOISE UNDER HOOD AND CAN BE FELT IN STEERING WHEEL. *EH UPDATED *EH (NHTSA ID #10012089, FEBRUARY 01 2006)
2.)TSB #000235003G -- CONCERNS THAT CLUNK NOISE CAN BE HEARD COMING FROM UNDER THE HOOD ALSO FELT IN THE STEERING WHEEL. *TT UPDATED *EH GM ADMINISTRATIVE MESSAGE. *TT (NHTSA ID #628884, APRIL 01 2005)
3.)TSB #030235006 -- REVISED STEERING WHEEL REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE. *TT (NHTSA ID #10005165, DECEMBER 01 2004)
4.)TSB #000235003E -- CLUNKING NOISE UNDER HOOD AND CAN BE FELT IN STEERING WHEEL. THIS BULLETIN REPLACES PREVIOUS BULLETIN 00-02-35-003E. *TT (NHTSA ID #10011223, AUGUST 01 2004)
5.)TSB #000235003C -- CLUNKING NOISE UNDER HOOD AND CAN BE FELT IN THE STEERING WHEEL. *TT (NHTSA ID #10004716, APRIL 01 2004)
6.)TSB #01634 -- INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT SERVICE KIT. SERVICE VME. *TT (NHTSA ID #10007231, JANUARY 01 2004)
7.)TSB #00299A -- NOISE FROM STEERING AT LOW SPEEDS. *TT (NHTSA ID #10007570, JANUARY 01 2004)
8.)TSB #01634A -- SUPPLEMENT TO 00-02-35-003D - CLUNKING NOISE UNDER HOOD AND CAN BE FELT IN THE STEERING WHEEL. *TT (NHTSA ID #10007276, JANUARY 01 2004)
9.)TSB #030236002 -- REVISED STEERING WHEEL POSITION SENSOR OR STEERING SHAFT LOWER BEARING REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE AND STEERING WHEEL POSITION SENSOR CENTERING PROCEDURE. *EH (NHTSA ID #10012577, AUGUST 01 2003)
10.)TSB #000235003B -- CLUNKING NOISE UNDER HOOD AND CAN BE FELT IN THE STEERING WHEEL. *TT (NHTSA ID #10000950, JANUARY 01 2003)
11.)TSB #201201 -- SUBJECT REGARDING STEERING CLUNK NOISE. *TT (NHTSA ID #629649, DECEMBER 20 2001)
12.)TSB #171201 -- SUBJECT REGARDING STEERING SHAFT CLUNK CONDITION. *TT (NHTSA ID #629629, DECEMBER 17 2001)
See Link Below
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Chevrol...001/tsbs.shtml
This is why we sold our Dlrshps and why I left GM...
GL
Greek

 

I have the same problem on my '02 Silverado. I seem to only feel it on left turns. I have an extended warranty though or is this covered by a recall?

 

IF YOU DO NOT WANT TO BE JERKED AROUND BY YOUR DLRSHP, TAKE ALL THE "TSBs," THAT COVER YOUR PROBLEM, SHOW THEM TO THE SERVICE MANAGER AND GIVE HIM A CHANCE TO FIX IT. IF HE SAYS SCREW YOU AFTER TRYING ONE TIME, CALL GM's COMPLAINT LINE, TELL THEM YOUR PROBLEM, REFER TO THE 'TSB's," AND THEY WILL SEND YOU TO ANOTHER DEALERSHIP LOCAL TO YOU AND WILL CALL THAT DLRSHP DIRECTLY BEFORE YOU EVEN GET THERE AND TELL THEM TO MAKE SURE THEY FIX IT FOR YOU. NEVER GIVE UP MAN AND DON'T TRUST THAT YOUR WARRANTY MEANS THE SERVICE MANAGER HAS TO BE HONEST. THE FACT IS, HE GETS "ZERO," COMMISION ON ANY "TSB OR WARRANTY," RELATED ISSUES. THE $$$ MEANS MORE TO THEM THAN YOUR PIECE OF PAPER; SAD VIEW BUT TRUE MAN. JUST NEVER GIVE UP. FIGHT!@!
GL
GreeK

 

hey, i have had a simular problem, and i still do just not as bad as it was. the steering has a lot of play in it and the truck "90 chevy silverado" would shake vigourasly on the front end between 35 and 45 but at 70 its smooth and can go in straitline when let off steering wheel but in town low speed it wants to go all over the road both sides, and sometimes at low speed it doesnt do it at all? when the truck vibrates it feelks like the whole front end is going to fly off. i put it on the rack changed the rack and pinion and lowertierod end on the drivers side and the other pinion gear on the gearbox itself. that is a quastion in my mind right now, how much play do you think there should be in the steering shaft?thers quite a bit.the whole shaft at the joint you can move a quarter inch but doesnt come out all the way but the bolt is tight. i just put new shocks on the front that seemed to helpfor a while but it still shimmies, but not as bad. i have 33 by12.50 on all 4. these tires are supersports and are only a yearold and are showing sighns of wear on bothe sides of the tire, the middle is still like new. these tires are agressive mud tires. i also put it on the rack again to check breaks and rotors but they are still new,bearings and ball joints are still tight no sighns of wear? this problem has me baffled. i was told to put sand bags in my tires , but that is for way bigger tires im sure. thats the first that ive ever heard of that. the rims arent bent either. that was another thought.cv joints looked okey, but that might be a possability, only thing is they are $80 apiece to just find out that they were good to begin with. any input on this would be really geat, there is one more option to think of and that would be to crank my torsion bars all the way up to tightent up the front end but then i wouldnt be able to go 4wheelin? right thats one way to get 2 more inches in hight. lol thanks

 

Correction by me -> First, check that your RIMS or RIM aren't/isn't bent. I am a hard Rock Crawler and my replacment rims are shot and shake the truck like hell.
Forget that as you already stated your rims are good. What may be the problem could be 1 of 2 things. Toe in or blem tires that are so off, the weight added exceeds 4oz's. You hould never have more than 2.5 ounces of weight needed to be added to and tire. Anymore, demand another set or buy another brand. You have that right!@! Also, run your air pressure 8lbs below top PSI when they are cold - maybe 65psi max - run between 55/58 psi cold. Outside wear shows a serious toe in issue. REMEMBER THIS; GM welds the front end in place at the factory. You are allowed 1 true alingment where they BREAK that weld. If the weld has never been broken, you will never get a true alignment ever no matter who does it.
Next, put a Rancho twin stearing stablizer system on. I put mine on when I jump to my M&T RockM8 35" tires and it makes a world of difference. Again, check your toe in, swee if weld has been broken and pay to have someone do it right if GM won't. Do a rotation and see if it still shakes up front.
Hope that helps
Gl
Greek

 

I corrected the above post, please re-read it..
Sorry
Greek

 

no worries, i know just about everything about ths truck, the original owner was george lundeen, you might know him. he is a famous bronze sculptor. he sold the truck to my unckle for a foundry work truck. then he sold the truck to my brother, then i traded a 85 ramcharger for it and had it ever since. i do know that it hasnt ever had a front end alighnment. the shops told my brother that they would have to cut something out. im wondering if that is the weld you were talking about.it came factory with 16s on it . but i wanted to get befier with it. the truck used to pull anyways. but it didnt start shimi untill months after i put the other tires on it. 15 inch didnt really figure would make that much of a difference between sizes. the trannys been rebuilt twice because the first time they didnt get it right. it has heavy duty gears in it now. $1800 you would think that they would do better quality work the first time. rims arent bent but i do need to check airpressure. these 33 are on stock lift so i had to shave the bumper some, but i wonder about the suspension do you think there is that much difference in tire size to really worry about that? i mean really 16 to a 15 inch rim. is the stabilizer bar going to help me more out on the highway verses offroad, what i mean is i need it more on the road than offroad. this chevy makes its own road off road.lol thanks for the help .one more thing what if i add a few more weights to the front tires?i thought that was ridiculas putting sand bags in them.

 

That thing that they need to cut is a 'tit," that binds the factory alignment in place. Get the guy who seems to know his sht about cutting it off to do it and then you can get the front end set. BTW??? did you by chance do a front lift, maybe 2"?? Or did you so a rear shackle jump. They reason I ask, you keep stating that you're being told to add weight to front end. Why in hell would you need to do that? Have you altered the body, maybe fiberglass? You should know that nitrogen is the off-road racers fill of choice, which is lighter than air. If your front end is bouncing, you have some serious toe and maybe camber issues. Since it changes at speed, get that "tit," cut, get your pro to string the chassis, tire to tire, right side then left. See what you’re dealing with. Ask a friend to follow you and see if you’re running sideways a bit. You can always tell if a truck has taken a hard Rock or curb to the rear by seeing if the rear is going straight. It woyld appear to look as if your truck is drifting to one side or another. I know you have seen a truck like this. If your friend looks up the side and can't see the front end of both sides when directly behind you, string the chassis for rear axle shift. a 1/2" either way will create a PUSH up front which no alignment will fix. You can look at where your axle and rear leaf spring mount meets . If your really off, you will see a line where it used to be as from factory. Rust will have formed there.
GL
Greek

 

I had the same problem, and still have the same problem on my 2003 Silv. It started around 8,000 miles. Dealership fixed with lubricating the steering shaft. About 4,000 miles later...same problem. By the time I got to 60,000, I had the steering shaft replaced twice, and lubed countless times to try and fix the clunking noise. Finally I called GM directly and threatened to use my lemon law rights. GM agreed to warranty all steering componants on my truck for as long as I owned, reguardless of mileage. I'm at about 133,000 now, and am about to make an appointment to have the shaft replaced again (I supposedly had a "new design" steering shaft installed at around 85,000 that was going to fix this problem permanantly).

Just get on the horn with GM and raise a little HE**. Considering that GM is desperately trying to cover up this problem with the silverado/sierra/tahoe steering shaft concerns, they will work with you just to shup you up. Threaten to call the BBB or Federal and state Consumer Affairs and they will do whatever you want. It's worked for 2 of my friends with the same problems, one even had over 100,000 miles on his truck when he reported the problem to GM. Good Luck.