Thanks for the help. I won't have time today but I'll see if I can do something with it tomorrow.

 

I just descreened my MAF today, i was going to take off my AC belt too...but didnt quite get to that. Taking off the MAF screen took total of maybe 10 min.

 

Not sure if this was addressed, but the MAF is designed to even the airflow out across the sensor wires. Removing the screen can screw up your AF ratio which can cause detonation if you don't tune for it. You may not be able to tell there's detonation until it's too late. The sensor on the stock MAF is calibrated to work with the screen in place. That's why if you do remove it, you need to have someone with tuning capabilities compensate for the change.

 

I've had my screen out for like four years now...

 

I just got looking and I kinda hijacked this away from descreening MAF's to talking about air intakes, sorry, my bad. Anyway, here is a pic 72. The flap I'm talking about has the yellow numbers printed on it. If a guy put in a K&N with the heat sheild the heat sheild may actually overlap that, it that's the case you could maybe roll it back (rather than cut it off so you could roll it back if you wanted) and the air would come straight in at the filter. If you took the thicker plastic plate off from behind the headlight assembly it might let more in. I headed this direction because I did a similar thing with my 2K Durango and it worked great. The D had the filter sitting farther back though so water splash really wasn't a problem. Where the Tahoe has the filter right up front if I tried these things I'd need the filter wrap to keep it dry, dontcha think?



[IMG]local://upfiles/5921/A3933AD6BF954C91916DAAB542E46D3D.jpg[/IMG]

 

Yeahremoving that flap probably wouldn't help. It looks like there is another flapbetween the headlight and the airbox though. Mine doesn't have that so I don't think you need it. Not sure on the removal process though as I don't have it.

 

I was just comparing the pics on the K&N installation sheetand my pic. The heat sheild does go past that flap to the side tankso taking the flap out of the way looks to melike it would let the air straight in to the filter. I also see no reason why you couldn't open up the flow through the headlights. I do think the water sock would be a good thing though if you did all that. I'll bet you could remove the one behind the headlights with a panel tool. I won't be doing any of this till spring. I need to sell the rims and tires from my totaled Durango. I'll use that money to buy the K&N but the middle of winter isn't a good time to move something like that. Don't know if I mentionedwhat I'm working with here,it's a 2000 Tahoe.

 

Okay, I emailed K&N and asked if they thought the Drycharger would be sufficient protection if I opened up the front end like I’ve been talking about. The tech asked that I not publish the response verbatim and I can understand and respect that. He said if anyone had any questions to please feel free to contact customer support through their website. He was very helpful and the response time was very good. To summarize, he didn’t know if there would be any air sensor issues from the added air direction but I could of course always try it and see if it helped. He said the Drycharger would be a big help, it is strong, lightweight, and won’t restrict airflow while adding protection for the filter. The waterproofing only lasts about a year so it would need to be replaced yearly. I think I’m gonna give it a shot but won’t be able to until spring.