Ok so latly i have been hearing a lot of talk about how long tube headers give more upper end power and shorty headers give more lower end power or vise versa im not sure if i have that right. What i would like to know is what one would give better fuel millage?
Im looking to get a new set of headers here pretty soon and that question has been taring me up inside. I was able to find a set of long and shorty's for about the same price and want to get the ones that will improve my fuel millage the best.

Also im not sure if anybody would know the answer to this question. But i would like to know if they would void the warrinty that i have one the truck. Im going to do a little research for my self but if there is anybody out there that knows that would be nice.

Thanks!

 

Well let me tell you, I did research on multiple sites asking pretty much everybody in creation wh owns a nbs chevy whether or not shorties produce any gains at all. The answer, only 1 person actually recommended them. The other 25 or so people I talked to basically told me this. The factory headers are incredibly designed and basically function for all intents and purposes as a short tube header would. So while you might reap 5hp and 5lb. ft of torque, they're certainly not worth it. Especially pacesetters. Most people said they actually noticed a loss in power with the pacesetters. I also called an exhaust shop and the guy told me he wouldn't put pacesetter headers on anything cause the flanges were so thin they are prone to warping and creating an exhaust leak.

So, either get long tubes which is gonna add more power across the board(elegedly), or don't get them at all. I got so flustered with it I opted to leave mine alone. As far as your warranty goes, I'd call your local dealer and ask the "Service Manager" only, if that would affect the warranty and if they could affect any of the components of thevehicle. Usually when you go doing something like long tube headers they are gonna void your warranty for sure cause that changes the emmissions standards on the vehicle and with it creating more power, any little problems that might occur they can say it is because of the headers and you are racing the truck(whether you are or not). Dealers suck all together.

Personally, "decent" long tube headers cost an arm and a leg and quite frankly after you pay someone to install them, you could have done 3 or 4 other things instead to make it quite a bit faster. In the long run they won't be worth it. Get a cold air intake, throttle body spacer, exhaust, and either a custome tune or a programmer and go from there.

 

Alright thanks that helps a lot. I am going to go with a new exhaust, throtle body spacer anda cold air intake. I have had good luck with that combo in the past.

 

How improtant is it to have a lotof back pressuer in the hunt for better gas millage? I want to get an exhaust but im torn between a single in duel out ora duel in duel out. i would like to stay away from true duels if i could because of the cost of the two mufflers and what not.

 

I would just go with single in dual out.

 

definately single in dual out. I have true duals, and at first my milage and low end dropped dramatically. I now have some reducers on the ends, so low end is coming back.

 

Ok i think i know what im going to go with for my exhaust. Im going to do the single in duel out. Now does anybody know what the size the stock tubing is. I would like to get the 3' in and the 2.5 out but im not sure what the diamiter of the stock exhaust is.

 

I think it is 2.5" Someone on here has 3" in 2.5 dual out though.

 

The programmer should help you out too. Have a gas saver setting, if it's an auto you can adjust the shift points etc... If it's a manual just keep your rpm's around 1000 when your not getting into it, it's easy to do up to 55 mph. I notice a big difference from that to hearing the exhaust or squashing ricers.