ok so i've had my truck for a while now and it's gettin kinda blah(boring)...i want to switch things up a bit and make it fun to drive it again...more power....new look(side skirts, air dam, bumber cover....the whole 9 yards)....not really sure what to do. i dont want to waste my money on something i wont like....help me out

 

As far as power goes: TBS(throttle body spacer)
Performance Exaust (flowmaster, borla, gibson, flowtech, etc.)
Cold Air/ Ram Air intake (K&N, airaid, valant, etc.)
Tons of engine work could be done (headers, , port n polish, new heads, cams, valves, lifters, intakes, etc.
Computer ups(programmers, MAF, PCM, etc.)
SuperChargers (expensive, but nice upgrade)
visit jegs.com, lmctrucks.com, truckaddons.com, and/or summitracing.com
As far as looks: SS Body Kits available
Caddilac Front End Kits
Rims (watch for five or six lug)
Body Kits
Hoods(personal favorite)
H.I.D lights, or any other diff. driving lights
Suspention(lower or jackup your ride)


Hope all this helps you out.

 

start out simple, get a hood scoop!

 

What mods do you have already?

 

YEAH, WHAT MODS DO YOU HAVE? IF YOUR LOOKING FOR PERFORMANCE START WITH THE EXHUST SYSTEM. DO A COMPLETE SWAP. INTAKE, MASS AIR SENSOR, HEADERS, CATS, AND A AFTER-CAT SYSTEM. FOR EXTERIOR THROW A DIFFRENT GRILL ON AND A BUMPER COVER. YOU'D BE VERY SURPRISED THE DIFFRENCE THOSE TWO THINGS WOULD MAKE TO THE APPERENCE OF YOUR CAR. HOPED THIS HELPED

 

He's on the right path, sort of. I think Bumper Covers went out in 95'. I had a 94 with a 6/4 Slam work done by "Traders," with a Vortec SC, Edelbrock Heads, Borla Headers and so on. Chewed up most Z/28s. I kept the stock bumper instead of getting the paint chipping plastic front end. 245s-305s on Boyds. Nice ride. Now my Z71 is preped and kicks ***.
I am a West Coast Old School Racer 1969 - Present day -
My uncle, Jess Tyree used to run A/gas from Fontana Raceway to Fremont to Lions to OCIR as well as the 8 western states preferred runs. He also built and sold the preferred Header back in the day "Tyree Headers."
If I could offer advice for the best perf upgrades I have found after spending much wasted money on , HERE THEY ARE and they work for ME. You should have your own ideas that should be respected here; these are listed to save you some cash of which I have wasted a ton of.
My 00/Z71 w/ Trailer Pkg - posi 4:10 rear; Dyno'd at rear wheels #1 367hp #2 362hp- BHP
Mods; here is a list you might consider that I have done.
1.) GMF MAF - Bought # 002 from JR when people were laughing at its worth over at LS1.com - I have bought one for every Car/Truck and have had the one on my Z/71 reprogrammed/replaced by JR 4 times since for upgrade mods.
2.) Headers - Gibs - B&B - Borla - Edelbrock - JBA - They are all the same !@!
3.) Magnaflow FreeFlowing Cats w/y pipe & Flomaster Delta 40 Cat back sys. DO NOT WASTE MONEY ON A CAT BACK PRE-ASSEMBLED SYSTEM, JUST HAVE YOUR LOCAL MUF SHOP PUT IN A 3" WITH A FLOWMASTER DELTA 40 AND SAVE $300. ( I have Borla on my C5, B&B on my Z28ss. As for Bassani - I grew up with the brothers in Fullerton. They were awesome for my MX racing bikes back in 1969-77 - Their current x-pipe muf is nothing more than a Corvette Muf wannbe. Darryl is a great guy so be nice..
4.) MSD Coils + Screaming Demon Coil + Dynamod + 8.5 wires
5.) Flexfan - Hear your 5.3 Spool up like never before PLUS an honest 7-10 hp
6.) Air induction - they are all the same as K&N 400cfm over, even the fresh flow. I use a K&N 57/67 (same) w/Airaid Tube - Higher intake, flows just as nice.
7.) Edelbrock LINGENFELTER LS1 CNC HEADS - These were worth every penny
8.) BBK 80mm TB
9.) TB Bypass - If you don't do this, what ever cold fresh air is coming in is heated up to 190* by the water passing through the TB
10.) Double Platium Plugs set at .60 - .65
11.) Helix Power Tower/Spacer - THIS SOB REALLY WORKS !@@! NS
12.) Demon Programmer - I know Hypertec is the fav BUT !@! the HP from the Demon is over 10hp more PLUS - you can CLEAR ANY AND ALL CODES - correct fuel pressure +/- and save your Tranny and Torque Converter with modulation <- this is important. There are 6 other mods that are not offered in any other programmer. I actually bought mine off Ebay used just to clear codes, nothing else. Still, it's a better unit.
13.) This is the expensive one and seems redundant. GET A RE-PROGRAMED PCM - DUMP THE HANDHELD JUNK unless like me, you don't want to have to pay the Dlrshp to clear codes every time you do an upgrade (which they won't unless you can show a CARB #, in Calif).
You have a Goodguy REP here, use him, he will ship. I went with Tom at Tbyrne Motorsports for my Truck only. (Ron Zimmerman did my pre 1997 cars, Steve Cole did my other cars)
The Goodguys Rep here like Tbyrne's PCM can do some crazy sht like;
a.) When you hit your Tow/Haul it bumps the HP up 10-15+hp plus puts your entire drive train in Full Race mode - I can only say that the second chirp you may get from a hand held is nothing like the TIRE SPINNING KICKOUT my rear-end offers me WHEN I HIT SECOND GEAR (second gear shifts at 91 mph. That is near TRAP SPEED for a stock Silverado in a 1/4 mile run.
14.) -&gt; IMPORTANT !@! If you going to do all this - Get a set of ProComp Traction Bars or anything similar. You will be putting immense spin on your Rear End which = snaping U-Joints. I have both the Procomp TBs<

 

YEAH, THATS ONLY ABOUT $10,000 WORTH OF MODS. DEFINITLY DONT WASTE, $300 ON A S.S. BUMPER COVER, THEY WENT OUT IN 95