the previous onwer told me that they had installed a new starter on my suburban they did and then it started to smoke so to counter act that he had a body shop guy that rarely works on actaul mechanical stuff run some wires up to the ignition relay with a inline fuse holder with a 30 amp fuse
well i was poking around under the hood after undercoating it my ground wire from the negative battery has a huge burn in it from the heat of the headers so the wires are exposed
also the wire runs from the battery to the back of the passenger side head with a bolt so when i get time tomorrow im gonna disconnect the battery and take the wire off run a new wire to it in hopes that it will solve the problem of everytime i need to start i have to raplce the fuse which is gonne get expensive after a while a coworker sugested putting in a circuit breaker so when it trips i can reset and should be good
also am going to look at the starter wires to see if any wires may be loose or wires exposed

then later on im going to install the new driver side header due to there being a huge gapeing whole right where the flange is at the collector

i have one question what years will match the trucks body style im going to be looking at buying fenders and a grill for the truck this winter ill be laid off so i can start to do some body work and im not gonna sell this one when its fixed

 

This is on your old pickup, or the new suburban?

If it's your old truck I think anything from 89-98 will fit easy enough.

Also, if you're burning up fuses, it would be better to figure out why they're going out, versus avoiding the actual problem. The problem could actually be that you have a fast acting fuse, for something like a multimeter, or a sensitive component. You're talking about a fuse on the wire that goes to the "S" terminal from the steering column/ignition switch? You should have a slow burning fuse. I have a 10A glass fuse on my custom S wire, and I've never had to replace it.

The problem is, when you energize the magnetic field in the starter solenoid's pull in and hold in coils, it draws electricity, but when you let off on the key after the engine's going, the solenoid' collapsing magnetic field creates huge amounts of voltage. (btw, this is basically how an ignition coil works). If you get a fuse no bigger than about 10A, and it's a slow burning fuse, it should be able to handle the momentary voltage spike.

This was actually demonstrated to me with a multimeter that has a "hold" feature, where it records the highest and lowest voltage. My instructor used an air conditioning compressor clutch coil, but it works basically the same way.

Electrical nerd signing off. Good luck.

 

its on my suburban and that was actually very helpfull it describes whats goin on cuase ill have power then start the truck it wont start cuz shes a carbed tempermental anyway i will turn the ignition off and try again then bam no power what so ever

 

Yep, you're poppin' that fuse.

Actually, looks like the fuse I have is rated for 32V. That's why mine can handle the voltage spike.

Your options for fixing this properly involve, putting a light bulb in series with the wire, and hoping that it will take up the extra voltage spike, install a starter relay, or perhaps try to find a diod that can handle 12V and probably 5-10 amps.

 

i will be replaceing the ground cable completly and i think that its shorting out and yes i am pricing the starter relays right know but the previous onwer rigged the wires and im not sure how he did it and what conects to what so im a little weary of undoing them
well see friday when i have the time to work and look at it

 

it should have a fusable link not a fuse for the s wire and go straight from relay to starter and you done

 

thanks fro the help i will make sure that i install a fuseable link on it when i redo some of the wireing
im trying to get the suburban ready for winter
also i forgot to mention my headlight plug has a loose connection so everytime i hit a bump the driver side goes weak and dim i have found it to be the actuall headlight wire plug the female one that mates with the 3 prongs on the head light would an auto parts store have just that part or would i have to go to a junk yard and hope for the best when i pull one

 

while busy working alot of hours at work i found a little down time to check out my problems with the suburban

1 i believe i fixed the fuse poping problem
2 replaced the negative battery cable to the back of pass side head
3 found out why its so squirly goin down the road i am missing a shock and the ones on it are worn
found out why my speedometer wont work
there is no freaking cable of all things
have not had time to put the new fenders on im tempted to just replace teh outer skin not the whole fender but its alot easier to replace the whole fender
and sorry for not taking alot of pictures i have been super busy with work latley i leave for work when its dark and dont get home till its dark

also i found 2 wholes in just one of my tires i used the old soapy water trick im waiting for my buddys dad to give me a call to see when i can go over to have him plug the tire i know how to plug it i just cant seem to get the plug to stay i the darn tire when i pull the tool out it sticks to the tool still

just wanted to give you guys a little update
also found some rear side panels for the burban i am going to buy know that i dont have to sped that money on tires

 

Cool stuff!

As far as the plug goes, if your tool is all sticky and nasty from doing other plugs, clean it off first. It's easier to do with air in the tire, so try pumping it up and then putting it in. One of my teachers at school likes to give the plug a 180 twist before he pulls it out. Give it another shot, you can do it

 

thanks nullhead i am going to do that tomorrow
and one other update
got my new speedo cable in the burban and my speedo is know working and so is the odometer
also the wierd thing is when i am goin in reverse the speed goes way below 5mph then i stop it goes to 5mph but im not worried about it casue at least i can know see how fast im goin
also figured out that i do have high beams the switch is on the floor
i am going to put the new header on the driver side but i am having difficulty removeing the bolt(S) closest to the front casue there is a stupid braket that is useless in my way so i get on off then gotta get the one behind the bracket so ill keep pluggin away and i will try to take pictures when i can
also i think my output shaft seal on my trans is leaking as there is trans fluid all over the yoke and above the shaft on the body

also i wil be purchasing the rear side panels soon and then when my lmc catalog gets to me ill be ordering innner and outer rocker panels

also i will be converting over the radio antenna from the windo to on the fender