stalls, no power
dang, a mile from home my truck stalled out. it happened when i tried to take off after being at a red light for a few minutes. restarts ok, and idles kind of ok, but stalls dead upon any pushing on the accelerator pedal. good samaritans helped pushed it off to the side of the road for now. earlier this afternoon, just 1.8 miles ago, i filed it up with gas
when i was stuck at the intersection, i tried to restart it acouple times. a couple times there was some faint kind of back fire, and twice i could get the rpms up high, but it always ends up stalling. the last time i tried to restart, it started okay and idled for may 10 seconds and then died. didn''t try it after that.
otherwise, its been getting great gas mileage, 4.3L 1999 Silverado. But the fuel gage has not been working for a couple years.
dag nabit ... and i need it for work ... any ideas, suggestions?
when i was stuck at the intersection, i tried to restart it acouple times. a couple times there was some faint kind of back fire, and twice i could get the rpms up high, but it always ends up stalling. the last time i tried to restart, it started okay and idled for may 10 seconds and then died. didn''t try it after that.
otherwise, its been getting great gas mileage, 4.3L 1999 Silverado. But the fuel gage has not been working for a couple years.
dag nabit ... and i need it for work ... any ideas, suggestions?
Last edited by nw chev; Sep 24, 2010 at 10:18 PM.
ok, got it home now, towed. I'll look at the distributor and see if there is condensation, given the muffled backfiring. And maybe figure out how to check the fuel pump pressure. I sure hope it is not a bad tank of gas that has gunked up the injectors. Otherwise, i'm at a loss and would really appreciate any tips.
Thanks ruffneck ... Dang again though. Just read the paragraphs on checking the fuel pressure. There is a heap to check, plus I don't have the gauge, connector hoses, etc...
I am wondering something. I presume the sending unit is bad because the fuel gauge has not worked properly for a couple years. Does replacing the sending unit require replacing the pump too? If so, maybe I'll just do that and see if it fixes the new problem before I put the bed back in place.
I filled up at the gas station less than 2 miles ago. #%^^&*^(#W^$!$ !!!
I am wondering something. I presume the sending unit is bad because the fuel gauge has not worked properly for a couple years. Does replacing the sending unit require replacing the pump too? If so, maybe I'll just do that and see if it fixes the new problem before I put the bed back in place.
I filled up at the gas station less than 2 miles ago. #%^^&*^(#W^$!$ !!!
The fuel level sensor sending unit and fuel pump can be purchased as an in-take assembly. Or, these can be purchased seperately as well. It's hard though to find the fuel pump without having to buy the entire assembly.
My fuel gauge was acting up when I got my Silvy. I found the sending unit at Rockauto for about $130 but the entire assembly with the fuel pump was somewhere around $200. In hind sight I should have just bought the whole assembly. I suspect my fuel pump will go after a while so I should have just done the whole mess while I was in the tank the first time.
My fuel gauge was acting up when I got my Silvy. I found the sending unit at Rockauto for about $130 but the entire assembly with the fuel pump was somewhere around $200. In hind sight I should have just bought the whole assembly. I suspect my fuel pump will go after a while so I should have just done the whole mess while I was in the tank the first time.
good point, rmck490
I heard that Delphi and ACDelco pumps are identical. Any comments?
The codes in the glove compartment indicate it has evaporative emissions (code EVA)
RockAuto $248ish for the Delphi w/EVA #FG0053
RockAuto $309ish for the ACDelco w/EVA #MU1089
Dealer $460 for the pump, based on last 8 of vin, in stock
Carquest $300ish Delphi, but i didn't know at the time w/ w/o EVA
Baxter $275ish ACDelco w/EVA
Besides the pump, what else should i consider replacing at the same time?
I heard that Delphi and ACDelco pumps are identical. Any comments?
The codes in the glove compartment indicate it has evaporative emissions (code EVA)
RockAuto $248ish for the Delphi w/EVA #FG0053
RockAuto $309ish for the ACDelco w/EVA #MU1089
Dealer $460 for the pump, based on last 8 of vin, in stock
Carquest $300ish Delphi, but i didn't know at the time w/ w/o EVA
Baxter $275ish ACDelco w/EVA
Besides the pump, what else should i consider replacing at the same time?
Last edited by nw chev; Sep 20, 2010 at 11:53 AM.
Yeah my 2001 did the exact same thing. Fuel guage acting weird for a while then eventually the pump went out. So since you are in there, might as well replace the whole thing to save headache from being stranded on the side of the road in the future.
thanks ruffneck. Any suggestions on brand, Delphi, ACDelco, or something better?
update ... i went ahead with the local parts store that can get in a couple hours the ACDelco w/EVA for $275ish
update ... i went ahead with the local parts store that can get in a couple hours the ACDelco w/EVA for $275ish
Last edited by nw chev; Sep 20, 2010 at 12:11 PM.
Well its really personal assurance and preferance. I went with the AC Delco. Goin on 150k with it. Other brands have been ok too. I just try to not run less than a 1/4 tank to keep from messin it up by chance.
Dang that was easy. Why on earth did I drive around for a couple years with a spastic fuel gauge? A neighbor helped bigtime with his electric impact wrench for taking out the 8 bed bolts and the project in general. Truck starts and first indications are that the fuel gauge is working again, but it will take a couple weeks of driving to be certain about the gauge.
Silverado NBS 1999 4.3L Extended Cab 2WD
ACDelco part #MU1613 (w/EVA) $275 from Baxter Autoparts. The box label says ACDelco, but there is no ACDelco indication on the instructions or pump assembly; RockAuto catalog suggests three ACDelco brand fuel pumps (w/EVA, no EVA, light Lube) for my truck, but the part numbers are different. The ACDelco website suggests 3 also, of which the one for w/EVA is MU1613.
One of the labels in the glove compartment lists all the codes, of which one is EVA, or evaporative emissions. I used that to know which pump to order.
1) remove relay from electrical box in engine compatment
2) turn over the engine for a few seconds (to relieve fuel pressure)
3) disconnect the negative battery cable
4) remove the three screws holding the filler tube to the bed
5) disconnect a couple tail light type wiring harnesses underneath the bed at the back
6) remove 8 bolts holding the bed to the frame
7) remove tailgate
8) move bed back so it rests on tires and bumper (3 guys, prob could have been done by 2 guys)
9) clean grit and grime from around fuel pump
10) disconnect two electrical cables from pump assembly
11) splice new electrical connector onto old wiring harness; pay attention to colors
12) slip large black gasket onto fuel assembly
13) snap the float lever into position
14) disconnect three fuel lines from pump assembly
15) use hammer and screwdriver to remove metal ring-plate that locks the pump assembly to the plastic gas tank
16) clean remainder of grit and grime
17) lift out pump assembly
Silverado NBS 1999 4.3L Extended Cab 2WD
ACDelco part #MU1613 (w/EVA) $275 from Baxter Autoparts. The box label says ACDelco, but there is no ACDelco indication on the instructions or pump assembly; RockAuto catalog suggests three ACDelco brand fuel pumps (w/EVA, no EVA, light Lube) for my truck, but the part numbers are different. The ACDelco website suggests 3 also, of which the one for w/EVA is MU1613.
One of the labels in the glove compartment lists all the codes, of which one is EVA, or evaporative emissions. I used that to know which pump to order.
1) remove relay from electrical box in engine compatment
2) turn over the engine for a few seconds (to relieve fuel pressure)
3) disconnect the negative battery cable
4) remove the three screws holding the filler tube to the bed
5) disconnect a couple tail light type wiring harnesses underneath the bed at the back
6) remove 8 bolts holding the bed to the frame
7) remove tailgate
8) move bed back so it rests on tires and bumper (3 guys, prob could have been done by 2 guys)
9) clean grit and grime from around fuel pump
10) disconnect two electrical cables from pump assembly
11) splice new electrical connector onto old wiring harness; pay attention to colors
12) slip large black gasket onto fuel assembly
13) snap the float lever into position
14) disconnect three fuel lines from pump assembly
15) use hammer and screwdriver to remove metal ring-plate that locks the pump assembly to the plastic gas tank
16) clean remainder of grit and grime
17) lift out pump assembly
Last edited by nw chev; Sep 24, 2010 at 10:27 PM.


