A Little OLD SCHOOL-Removing Oil Sludge
I see that many guys here, and a solid "Right On," to them, have not let go of their 10+ year old trucks. I see them post about power loss and lazy engines. Unless you’re a guy who changes his oil every 3k-5k at the most, chances are your suffering from built up sludge in your engine. I'm not going to tell you to stop spanking yr monkey, it's your fault. The fact is, life happens and we move on.
Engine Sludge build up is the one thing you cannot see even by removing your oil pan. It won't show up in your oil filter because of the "push," your system creates. It will show up in engines running hot, slow pick up from start and MPH drop off. You can go to a dlrshp and believe they are going to Flush your Motor but the fact is they won't. They will simply
remove all water from radiator and run your system with a 'non filter," filter (hollow) until it hits 215-220 degrees for about 5 mins after temp level is reached. Then drain oil, change filter and top off the oil, then charge you for a radiator flush as well. Need I say what this does to your engine and maybe that is the point. So I will tell you what my father and uncle showed me was the #1, absolute method to get the grunge out. I used to buy used cars for pennies on the $ when I was in HS. I took them to school and we had project cars. The car I remember the most was a 57 Chevy that I bought with out ever looking under the hood. I assumed it had a 283 at the least because the seller told me it had a V8. I hoped it would be a Fueli', if not, it would become one. What I discovered when we popped the hood at shop was a dlrshp replacement motor. It was a 1958 W/Block-348ci w/3 deuces. For you guys who took shop in the 60's and early 70s' you remember there were 2 ways to do it. Quick and sell or fix to keep. I sold everything I bought and this was to be no exception. When we pulled the plug on the oil pan, what appeared to be chocolate syrup came out;' NOT GOOD. I was not going to pull the motor on a turn over. So I presented this dilemma to my father. He spent about an hour trying to convince me to sell my 64 Chevelle SS and keep the 57(Old School Slam Down Followed) before giving up. Here is what he told me to do and BTW, it worked great, bringing that 348 back with a vengeance (I did rebuild the carbs, new W/Pump, Generator and a few other electrical items). This will still work today and if you really care about your truck and cannot afford a new motor, trust is needed.
First you get as Clean and light an oil as you can find, Virgin Olive Oil works the best. You remove the oil pan and steam or GUNK your crank and anything and everything you can, changing out the oil pump if you wish, I did and would.
You will need 2 oil filters for this so have them with you. After you put back on the pan, add 4 quarts of Virgin Olive Oil and 1 QUART of
"MINERIAL SPRITS," to the motor (get this at Home Depot). Take all fluids out of radiator and put in 2 gallons of straight water w/3 table spoons of salt. Run motor for as long as it takes to get up to 200 degrees and due to the lack of water and oil, it may be fast. Here is where you get to see what crap has been taking up residence in you motor. Remove oil pan. You will be shocked. Jack up front of truck and let all oil drip for 20 mins but jack it up no matter. Empty Radiator, refill with water only and add a Flush. Add oil you plan on using, change filter again and run until warm. Let Cool, empty radiator and see the cloging phosphates run down into the pan. Run hose into upper engine water intake until clear. Replace thermostat and hoses, refill with 50/50 mix, usually 2 gallons of GREEN (NOT RED!@!) Anti Freeze and top off with water.
You engine is clean now as well as your cooling system from your radiator, through your heads and back. I promise Zero Damage if you follow this to the TEE!@! and a better running engine to boot. If you have doubts about the mineral sprits, just look at a Prestone Engine Flush->40% Minera
Engine Sludge build up is the one thing you cannot see even by removing your oil pan. It won't show up in your oil filter because of the "push," your system creates. It will show up in engines running hot, slow pick up from start and MPH drop off. You can go to a dlrshp and believe they are going to Flush your Motor but the fact is they won't. They will simply
remove all water from radiator and run your system with a 'non filter," filter (hollow) until it hits 215-220 degrees for about 5 mins after temp level is reached. Then drain oil, change filter and top off the oil, then charge you for a radiator flush as well. Need I say what this does to your engine and maybe that is the point. So I will tell you what my father and uncle showed me was the #1, absolute method to get the grunge out. I used to buy used cars for pennies on the $ when I was in HS. I took them to school and we had project cars. The car I remember the most was a 57 Chevy that I bought with out ever looking under the hood. I assumed it had a 283 at the least because the seller told me it had a V8. I hoped it would be a Fueli', if not, it would become one. What I discovered when we popped the hood at shop was a dlrshp replacement motor. It was a 1958 W/Block-348ci w/3 deuces. For you guys who took shop in the 60's and early 70s' you remember there were 2 ways to do it. Quick and sell or fix to keep. I sold everything I bought and this was to be no exception. When we pulled the plug on the oil pan, what appeared to be chocolate syrup came out;' NOT GOOD. I was not going to pull the motor on a turn over. So I presented this dilemma to my father. He spent about an hour trying to convince me to sell my 64 Chevelle SS and keep the 57(Old School Slam Down Followed) before giving up. Here is what he told me to do and BTW, it worked great, bringing that 348 back with a vengeance (I did rebuild the carbs, new W/Pump, Generator and a few other electrical items). This will still work today and if you really care about your truck and cannot afford a new motor, trust is needed.
First you get as Clean and light an oil as you can find, Virgin Olive Oil works the best. You remove the oil pan and steam or GUNK your crank and anything and everything you can, changing out the oil pump if you wish, I did and would.
You will need 2 oil filters for this so have them with you. After you put back on the pan, add 4 quarts of Virgin Olive Oil and 1 QUART of
"MINERIAL SPRITS," to the motor (get this at Home Depot). Take all fluids out of radiator and put in 2 gallons of straight water w/3 table spoons of salt. Run motor for as long as it takes to get up to 200 degrees and due to the lack of water and oil, it may be fast. Here is where you get to see what crap has been taking up residence in you motor. Remove oil pan. You will be shocked. Jack up front of truck and let all oil drip for 20 mins but jack it up no matter. Empty Radiator, refill with water only and add a Flush. Add oil you plan on using, change filter again and run until warm. Let Cool, empty radiator and see the cloging phosphates run down into the pan. Run hose into upper engine water intake until clear. Replace thermostat and hoses, refill with 50/50 mix, usually 2 gallons of GREEN (NOT RED!@!) Anti Freeze and top off with water.
You engine is clean now as well as your cooling system from your radiator, through your heads and back. I promise Zero Damage if you follow this to the TEE!@! and a better running engine to boot. If you have doubts about the mineral sprits, just look at a Prestone Engine Flush->40% Minera
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